Zebopping in Goa - Part III

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Posted by Saurav Chakraborty | Posted in , | Posted on 8:59 PM

Taken at Utorda Beach - Dec 2009 while sitting and sipping golden froth in one of the many
shacks that cater to the vast foriegners and sparse Indians in this region.
Sunset at Utorda Beach.It is a great feeling to move to a quiet corner, move into the water and seep into the golden calm of the evening low tide.
I wonder what the guy whos upside down is singing - probably "Stuck in the middle with you".By the way there are two people because one is a local guide(hes alright in the pic)
(Parasailing at Utorda Beach - 800 INR(Negotiated) per ride)
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Zebopping in Goa - Part II

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Posted by Saurav Chakraborty | Posted in , , | Posted on 11:42 PM

Apologies to all my readers for being away so long.I think what I developed was a "Blogger's Block".Nevertheless I am back...back with a bang.A bang that guarantees one quality post per week.Did I ever tell you that in Goa there is a place in Panaji called Fountainhas...that takes you to the laid back old days...that reminds you of the "Good ol susegad life"?
Fountainhas,which means small fountains is located at the heart of Panaji(Reach the Panaji Church and then ask someone) and has mostly the catholic community(of Portuguese Descent).The place has been listed in the Lonely Planet guide and has an amazing feel about it.
A visit to Fountainhas also means a visit to Mrs Linda D'souza's gastronomic restaurant called "Viva Panjim".The food is authentic(Please please try the Pork Sorpotel,Prawn Curry rice and the chicken cafreal), the service quite good(Considering the fact that you are in Susegad land) and the benches laid out in the narrow alley add to the rustic charm.

Goa has many thousand restaurants...but some are worth going.Here's a small list that wont let you down:

* Souza Lobo - Calangute - Prawns,Prawns,Prawns
* Fiorentinos -on way from Porvorim to Calangute - Chicken Cafreal
* Casa Moderna - Panjim(Near National Theatre) - Rawas Fish Fry
* La Pastelaria - 18th June Road - Pastries Galore
* Kamat Hotel - Panaji(Near Panaji Church) - Great Veg Thali
I guess I could be pretty pissed off about my 0900 AM to 0900 PM job schedule,grumpy about no increments in 2009,or about the fact that India again lost a cricket match...or whatever!

"But it's hard to stay mad when there's so much beauty in the world. Sometimes I feel like I'm seeing it all at once, and it's too much. My heart fills up like a balloon that's about to burst. And then I remember to relax, and stop trying to hold on to it. And then it flows through me like rain. And I can't feel anything but gratitude for every single moment of my stupid little life"
(Excerpt from Americal Beauty - Narrated by Kevin Spacey)

Aint that apt?


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Zebopping In Goa - Part I

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Posted by Saurav Chakraborty | Posted in , , , | Posted on 10:21 PM

If you are a long term reader of my blog,then you will know by now my fascination with Goa.It is not only because I have spend my adolescent years there,but also because of the fact that Goa is truly an unique place.A place that has beauty,culture,diversity,tranquility and Unhurriedness - all in equal measure.I stayed this time at South Goa and its easy enough to notice the small differences between South and North Goa.South Goa is the true un-commercialized Goa...the Goa with those "Quiet Beaches"...the Goa with those "Empty village roads"...the Goa with those great "Local cuisine stopovers".On the other hand,North Goa looks nowadays(Especially Baga and Calangute) like Juhu Beach(with a few more foreigners actually).I stayed at Royal Orchid based at Utorda Beach,Salcete and the experience was awesome.
I stayed at this 4 Star hotel chain called the Royal Orchid(Owned by Galaxy Group).This hotel has all the luxurious amenities required to be called a star hotel,a great staff and most importantly...Utorda Beach just a stones throw away(see above).Most importantly,the hotel does offer some great deals on its rooms - more so if you are a REPEAT visitor.The rooms are fabulous,the modular bathrooms fascinating and the the room service is prompt.What more does one want?

Utorda beach is a very unique beach.At one glimpse,I does feel like you have come to a Russian Beach.Surprised?Well,I think many years back an influential Russian Man must have visited Utorda and when he went back...he just blurted the place out to everyone he knew.So now - every kind of Russian visits Utorda Beach i.e "The Couple" , "The Old and married" , "The Familyman" and the "Adventurer".So much is the Russian influence,that even "Food Menu Boards" at shacks are written in Russian.I took my best sunset photo yet at this beach and the feeling was great.

The evening time at the beach actually belongs to the shacks -and above all "Zebop by the sea" at Utorda.Every sea-food item at Zebop is Dige-licious .One must try the "Mussels Rava Fry" and "Prawns Curry Rice" to understand what I am saying.In case you want to try something more fancy in Seafood - try the Lobster Butter Garlic(1200 INR for a piece : serves 3 people) with steamed rice.

Theres lot more to write...lot more unique places...In time,I will!

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The Lonely Konkan Coast - Epilogue!

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Posted by Saurav Chakraborty | Posted in , , | Posted on 8:43 AM

Looked deep into the April face,
a change has clearly taken place...
We were looking for the summer!
The eyes take on a certain gaze,
and leave behind the springtime days...
We were looking for the summer!
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The Lonely Konkan Coast - Velneshwar!

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Posted by Saurav Chakraborty | Posted in , , | Posted on 8:31 AM

Velneshwar Beach is about 26 Kms from Guhagar.The journey is a green one,as there's thick vegetation all around as one twists and turns on the western ghats.The first view of Velneshwar Beach is pure magic as one sees it from a distance while coming down the ghats.
At the entry of the beach,lies the Velneshwar Temple.Built to honor the great lord Shiva,this temple is as old as 1700 years(One part only - the rest was build in 60's - 70's).I spend a lot of time there,mostly because the temple had no touts.I must applaud the Marathi Manoos for this, as in all the temples in Maharashtra I have been to,there have been zero touts,and each one has been sparkling clean.
The water at Velneshwar is definitely the cleanest of all beaches I have been to(Alibaug,Kashid,Kihim,Guhagar etc) on the Konkan coast.Add this to the fact that there are a handful of people about,one can really have a great swim in the Arabian Sea.
There is always so much not to do :-)...but just laze around when you are at places like these.Sit along the benches and feel the ocean breeze.Wait for the sun to dip in and then start the evening siesta...create a bonfire...raise a toast...to the almighty...for giving us all this beauty.

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The Lonely Konkan Coast - Prelogue!

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Posted by Saurav Chakraborty | Posted in , , | Posted on 8:32 AM

This boat wreck was seen at Guhagar Beach,a desolate stretch of white sands sandwiched between the western ghats.
Guhagar lies about 280 Kms from Mumbai on route to Goa.This beach really offers all sanctity one looks in a serene and secluded beach. The invasions of modern concrete buildings are scanty in this beach. The beach offers a perfect place for sunbath, relaxation and meditation, all far far away from the madding crowds.
The town of Guhagar bustles with quiet energy,people going about their jobs without much worry.Although the town seems held back in town due to the serenity,there are stores and shops with most of the latest products.

One unique feature of the place are the countless "Supari Trees" (Betel Nut).Going by the way they spread these Betel Nuts to dry of every rooftop,these villagers must be taking their "Betel Nut Harvesting" seriously.
Also while you are there,please eat the "Pomphret Fry Thali" or the "Mutton Kolhapuri"(Very Spicy...but worth it) at Hotel Annapurna.The hotel is clean,service is prompt and sharp and the owner looks genuinely happy.

To sum it up,Guhagar is a great destination to chill off during a weekend without any stress given to you bosses,as you can be back before Monday.It's a place that also has other adjoining locales worth seeing.Will talk about them in my next post.
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Bulls Eye @ Pindari!

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Posted by Saurav Chakraborty | Posted in , , | Posted on 1:03 AM

After Phurkhiya literally takes your breath away,thankfully the trek to Pindari is not very steep,but more or less up and down.Some guys may have slight trouble in breathing(Smokers beware) because of the height.One climbs from Phurkhiya (12000 Ft) top Pindari(14000 Ft).The route is just magical and makes you forget the pain,troubles,anticipations of the last six days.I had to wrap my T- Shirt on my head as my ears were paining due to cold air.
Vegetation starts to slowly disappear as you go higher and higher.More you start seeing barren rocks,with flakes of snow on them.A little away beckons the Pindari Glacier...standing Majestic in all its glory.I must tell you all here that in the hills,whatever looks near can be miles away.I remember that Pindari was still 3 Kms away when I took the photo above.Moreover,don't ask you guides how far...ever...coz they will only sat - "Thoda Door" ...i.e...just a little far away.They always say this in order to motivate people to trek happily and not grumpy faced...and gloomy...about the tough prospects ahead.

The sight of the "Valley Of Dreams" will be imprinted in my mind forever.The ecstasy and joy of reaching your destination after 6 days of toiling and hiking through the terrains...is indescribable.Maybe the picture above can only sum up my feelings.
The small hutment that you can see in the picture is Pindari Baba's camp.Swami Dharmananda,is truly a unique character.He stays in Pindari Glacier almost 8 months and moves back to Khati during the peak snowfall.
Guarded by his two trusted pahari dogs,Swami Dharmananda helps you to free filling of Tea,Biscuits(Unlimited) and even lunch.An extremely friendly guy,he does sometime border of discussions that sometimes sound TRULY COSMIC:-).For example he told us that he can do the six day trek that we did within 1 day and that too till Almora(The main town).Well,I don't blame him,as he stays all alone there,and besides the occasional hiccup...Pindari Baba is a pretty great guy and an attraction in himself.
I remember after the Tea and Biscuits how we sat and seeped in the surroundings.The surrounding peaks,the humming and groaning air...they all seemed magical.
The ending shot has to be the two musketeers and a word of loving praise from my side for Mr Badru.I can bestow a true compliment on him by saying that he till date was my most compatible travel companion - No Complaints...No Issues...all cool.

God bless the terrains of India...God bless terrainspotter...I shall be back for more!

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Phurkhiya - At the edge of the mighty Himalayas!

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Posted by Saurav Chakraborty | Posted in , , | Posted on 8:51 AM

It is said that Pictures speak a thousand words.This is my 100th post on www.terrainspotter.com and I won't write anything about Phurkhiya.About 5 Kms uphill from Dwali(And really uphill)...Phurkhiya is the last junction with houses before Pindari Glacier,Kafni Glacier and Sunderdungha Glacier.

video

From Purkhiya,the peaks can be seen with amazing clarity,and the Pindari Glacier just seems a stones throw away.There is a KMVN(Kumaon Mandal Vikas Nigam) rest house here too,but bookings have to be done way way in advance.Thus it is advisable to bring your own tent.Eat properly before starting for Pindari the next day,as there are no dhabas or even tea stalls between Phurkhiya and Pindari.

Cheers to my 100th post.It took one and a half years to reach here:-).
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Dwali - The village by the river!

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Posted by Saurav Chakraborty | Posted in , , | Posted on 7:48 PM

Dwali is about 11 Kms from Khati Village.The entire journey is done besides the Pindar River,through narrow manmade lanes cut across the hills.In fact,i strongly believe that a Khati - Dwali trek makes you understand the true beauty of the great Himalayan valley.
There are scores and scores of waterfalls on the way,water coming out of low lying holes,water falling from 100 ft,water flowing besides you as you walk and water flowing below you as you walk.The entire trek to Dwali is the easiest,full of visual delights...with the cool river breeze hitting you all the time!
There are numerous rickety wooden bridges that pass on the way,which creak precariously and freak you out as you are on them.I also want to say a thank you through this site to my Travel Mate - Mr Badru for his Never-Say-Die spirit.A quiet person in nature,Mr Badru was far fitter than me(A true desi ghee khaya hua Punjabi Mumda) who did the entire Pindari Trek terrain without a single complaint.
Evenings are a great time in the hills,when you can see the dim red light of the sun set across the nearby hills.You see the clouds pass by and rub your shoulders.It's a great time to sum up your life till now and think practically about the future.In the above photo,Mr Badru seems to be doing just that.
video

Dwali indulges you in the simple pleasures.As you can see from the video,even simple Dal,Chawal and a double omelette can taste like heaven...WHEN YOU ARE IN HEAVEN!

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Myriad Dreams at Khati!

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Posted by Saurav Chakraborty | Posted in , , | Posted on 1:54 PM

From Dhakuri top,it's a downhill trek of 8 Km's to the beautiful town of Khati.Khati lies at a height of about 7600 Ft,surrounded by all sides by the mighty himalayas.
Khati looks like a town...that's long lost in time.10 A.M in the morning and you will see people playing cards,snakes and ladders,Carrom and have the least care in the world about earnings and moolah.The best thing to do in Khati is to sit at the wooden benches besides the stalls and sip your tea as the clouds pass you by.
If you are bored with the tea and the sitting a wee bit,then take a 2 Km downward trek to the Pindar river,which especially during rains...looks scary to say the least...with rapids well above level 4.(ferocity of Rapids are are identified by levels : 1-5).

In the evenings,sit on the cottage balcony and take a look at the silence around you...the occasional cattle's grazing by...the stray mountain dog looking for pieces of food on the wet grass.
One of the scariest natural things that you see around Khati are the Landslides.Imagine,you are standing on the hilly landscapes and suddenly the ground beneath you collapses.Gives me the shivers even thinking about it.The villagers say that landslides can happen anytime and there are no signs...but any ground that's loosely hangs from protruding rocks is considered dangerous.
We stayed two whole days in Khati,as we were stuck because of perennial rains.It was a great soul searching time for me in this quiet easygoing town.Khati is the last town going ahead which has solar powered STD booths.So traveller's to Pindari,Kafni,Sunderdungha or the basecamp...do make your calls here because then you get completely cut off from the world.

Do visit by for my next travelogue on the village by the Pindar rapids - Dwali

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