Terrainspotter's Travelogues

Among the Theravada Budhists - Karla Caves

2010-09-06T22:04:00.015+05:30

Karla caves are one of the best example of rock cut caves in India.Build during the 2nd century B.C, the caves are a sight to behold with it's intricate craftsmanship and Buddhist style grandeur.Located at Karli near Lonavala, Maharashtra(11 Km's from Lonavla off the NH4 highway), the caves were in terms of ancient relevance on a major ancient trade route, running eastward from the Arabian Sea into the Deccan.Karla caves lie on top of a hill and in case you are there during the monsoons, the scenic beauty is wonderful.

Greenery all around, small houses with hills at the back and a flowing waterfall in sight...one has to first drive up the steep road leading to the base from where the climb begins.Its again a fairly easy 1/2 km trek up the rugged stairs which lands you in front of the caves.

The caves really blow you away as it must have been some work to cut out designer balconies from a giant hill. Built in the time of the Theravada Buddhists(The oldest surviving Indian Buddhist schools), these caves do not actually show the image of Buddha but instead intricate carved drawing of humans and animals.

Some tremendous craftsmanship that has lasted many thousand years. Our current day real estate buggers need to learn something from them.

The main cave has a magnificent Chaitya(Buddhist Shrine) with huge pillars and intricately carved relief's dating back to the 1st century B.C.

By common belief people try to throw a coin accurately inside the elevated funnel structure(see above photo) in one try(That's my friend trying his luck!)

Outside the Karla caves also coexists the Ekaveera Temple(A temple devoted to Goddess Kali). This temple is revered by the Koli tribes of Lonavla and other nearby regions.The tribal Goddess Aai Ekvira(another avataar of Kali Goddess) is the main deity here. The Koli tribes throng to this temple during special occasions like navarathri and chaitra(major hindu festivals).Koli tribes offer animal sacrifices in this temple and they offer the sacrifice of goat or chickens and they believe that the tribal Goddess has majestic powers. This ritual still goes on today and even a normal person can ask for the sacrifice a Goat/Chicken and once the Bali(sacrifice) is done, the meat is cooked and given to the devotee who ordered the sacrifice!

Keep reading this space as the wanderlust will continue!

In the land of the Peshwas - Pune City!

2010-09-05T20:39:00.020+05:30

Pune has kind of always played second fiddle to Mumbai and I was always keen to find out more about this seventh largest Indian metropolis. So when my close friend Kishor told me that we could stay at his flat in Pune for a day and roam about...I did not let go of the opportunity. Pune city is known to have existed as a town since 937 AD. Shivaji Maharaj, the founder of the Maratha Empire, lived in Pune as a young boy, and the city oversaw significant growth and development during his reign. Around 1730, Pune city became an important political centre as the seat of the Peshwas - the prime ministers to the Chhatrapati i.e 'The Ruler'. The whole of Pune city is abound with the signs of the 'Glorious Age' gone by of the Peshwas.Moropant Trimbak Pingle was the first Peshwa (Prime Minister) in the court of Shivaji in 1647, and post that the Peshwas became stronger and stronger in stature and later became the hereditary rulers of the Maratha Empire from 1749 to 1818.

(I loved this painting above at a shop which shows the Chatrapati interacting with his ministers .What a grand era it must have been!)

The thing with Pune is that like all great cities, you have to digest the good with the bad. The road sense of Pune traffic goers really puts a bad taste in your mouth. Please be very alert when you drive in this city...VERY! The number of two wheelers are so immense that it reminds you of the 'Soldier Ants' on Discovery channel who go about chopping the leaves with their tongs and destroying everything in their way. There are men on bikes with men, men sitting behind women, women driving alone, old uncles driving their scooty - all of them appearing from one invisible side lane or other giving you the brakebumps. Kishor told me that the high number of two wheelers is due to the fact that there is no local train system in Pune...but that has nothing to do with developing bad traffic sense. The autowallahs are no good either...and I will explain that with a funny incident. Another friend of mine joined us from Mumbai in the night and his travel expenses were like this : Mumbai to Pune Shivaji Park(140 Km's) - 150 INR and Shivaji Park to Patwardhan Baug(probably 10 Km's - Where Kishor stays) in an auto : 100 INR. Ridiculous...Isn't it?

The first thing you gotta do in Pune in case you have a slight empty stomach is try out the awesome Vegeterian Thalis(Authentic Maharashtrian Style) around the city. Since I was with a local guy, I was taken to the one of the best - Krishna Dining at Law College Road.

An authentic Maharashtrian Thali will have a salad called 'Koshimbir'(Small pieces of Cucumber mixed with cold curd - the white salad in the picture) and the trademark 'Batata Bhaji'( Boiled and dry fried potatoes spices with curry leaves and other Indian masalas). What I really loved was the Matarchi Usal( A mildly spicy Green Pea centric gravy - the bowl on the right side of the roti/bread). The food supply for the thali is unlimited and the final serving in main course is Rice with Yellow Dal(Pulses) with a cheerful sprinkling of ghee. I will give this restaurant a five star rating not only for the taste but also cleanliness and manners. The staff is polite yet forthcoming. One full veg thali costs 170 INR but believe me...It's worth it!

After such a meal which fills you up till your throat, what do you do! Well, in Pune you can always land up for a panoramic view from Parvati hill that also mounts a 'Bhavani Temple'(In hindu mythology 'Bhavani' is the ferocious aspect of goddess Parvati).

It's not a trek to the hill...in fact it's an easy climb...but definitely useful to digest your food and savour the 360 degree view of Pune city.

When evening falls , the best place to meander is the impressive Deccan area. It is upmarket, upbeat and not to forget...very crowded with both people(a lot of students as Pune is one of the leading educational lanmarks of India with over hundred Institutes) and branded shops. One must try the Chole Bhature(A traditional Indian veg dish) at Shiv Sagar and the Vada Pao at Sambhaji park opposite to it.

The weather of Pune is an added attraction...maybe because of the fact that its 500 Mts higher than the sea level.The evenings are nice and cool and it's a great change from Mumbai's constant humidity. You will see some outrageous hoardings behind the auto rickshaws and I saw two : 'Meri chalti hain toh teri kyun jalti hain'(I really cant translate this one...:-(...so sorry my non Indian readers) and 'Mujhe nahi pata aapko jaana kahan hain toh kripya bata do pehle se'. Very unique...I must say!

There are a few other must do things when in Pune and they are(Although I did not go there...but this post is about everything that's uniquely Pune...so what the heck!) :

A. A visit to the bakeries of Pune ( German Bakery at Koregaon park or Kayani Bakery at M G Road)

B. Shanivarwada - the palacial residential forts of the Peshwas

C. Purandhar Fort - located 40 Km's from Pune on the Narayanpur Seswad road(on the way from Pune to Satara)

Hope you all liked this post. Will cover places at a much faster frequency from now on!

The Lonely Konkan Coast - Prelogue!

2009-11-30T08:32:00.015+05:30

This boat wreck was seen at Guhagar Beach,a desolate stretch of white sands sandwiched between the western ghats.

Guhagar lies about 280 Kms from Mumbai on route to Goa.This beach really offers all sanctity one looks in a serene and secluded beach. The invasions of modern concrete buildings are scanty in this beach. The beach offers a perfect place for sunbath, relaxation and meditation, all far far away from the madding crowds.

The town of Guhagar bustles with quiet energy,people going about their jobs without much worry.Although the town seems held back in town due to the serenity,there are stores and shops with most of the latest products.

One unique feature of the place are the countless "Supari Trees" (Betel Nut).Going by the way they spread these Betel Nuts to dry of every rooftop,these villagers must be taking their "Betel Nut Harvesting" seriously.

Also while you are there,please eat the "Pomphret Fry Thali" or the "Mutton Kolhapuri"(Very Spicy...but worth it) at Hotel Annapurna.The hotel is clean,service is prompt and sharp and the owner looks genuinely happy.

To sum it up,Guhagar is a great destination to chill off during a weekend without any stress given to you bosses,as you can be back before Monday.It's a place that also has other adjoining locales worth seeing.Will talk about them in my next post.

The Lonely Konkan Coast - Velneshwar!

2009-12-01T08:31:00.011+05:30

Velneshwar Beach is about 26 Kms from Guhagar.The journey is a green one,as there's thick vegetation all around as one twists and turns on the western ghats.The first view of Velneshwar Beach is pure magic as one sees it from a distance while coming down the ghats.

At the entry of the beach,lies the Velneshwar Temple.Built to honor the great lord Shiva,this temple is as old as 1700 years(One part only - the rest was build in 60's - 70's).I spend a lot of time there,mostly because the temple had no touts.I must applaud the Marathi Manoos for this, as in all the temples in Maharashtra I have been to,there have been zero touts,and each one has been sparkling clean.

The water at Velneshwar is definitely the cleanest of all beaches I have been to(Alibaug,Kashid,Kihim,Guhagar etc) on the Konkan coast.Add this to the fact that there are a handful of people about,one can really have a great swim in the Arabian Sea.

There is always so much not to do :-)...but just laze around when you are at places like these.Sit along the benches and feel the ocean breeze.Wait for the sun to dip in and then start the evening siesta...create a bonfire...raise a toast...to the almighty...for giving us all this beauty.

The Lonely Konkan Coast - Epilogue!

2009-12-07T08:43:00.013+05:30

Looked deep into the April face,

a change has clearly taken place...

We were looking for the summer!

The eyes take on a certain gaze,

and leave behind the springtime days...

We were looking for the summer!

Zebopping In Goa - Part I

2010-01-01T22:21:00.020+05:30

If you are a long term reader of my blog,then you will know by now my fascination with Goa.It is not only because I have spend my adolescent years there,but also because of the fact that Goa is truly an unique place.A place that has beauty,culture,diversity,tranquility and Unhurriedness - all in equal measure.I stayed this time at South Goa and its easy enough to notice the small differences between South and North Goa.South Goa is the true un-commercialized Goa...the Goa with those "Quiet Beaches"...the Goa with those "Empty village roads"...the Goa with those great "Local cuisine stopovers".On the other hand,North Goa looks nowadays(Especially Baga and Calangute) like Juhu Beach(with a few more foreigners actually).I stayed at Royal Orchid based at Utorda Beach,Salcete and the experience was awesome.

I stayed at this 4 Star hotel chain called the Royal Orchid(Owned by Galaxy Group).This hotel has all the luxurious amenities required to be called a star hotel,a great staff and most importantly...Utorda Beach just a stones throw away(see above).Most importantly,the hotel does offer some great deals on its rooms - more so if you are a REPEAT visitor.The rooms are fabulous,the modular bathrooms fascinating and the the room service is prompt.What more does one want?

Utorda beach is a very unique beach.At one glimpse,I does feel like you have come to a Russian Beach.Surprised?Well,I think many years back an influential Russian Man must have visited Utorda and when he went back...he just blurted the place out to everyone he knew.So now - every kind of Russian visits Utorda Beach i.e "The Couple" , "The Old and married" , "The Familyman" and the "Adventurer".So much is the Russian influence,that even "Food Menu Boards" at shacks are written in Russian.I took my best sunset photo yet at this beach and the feeling was great.

The evening time at the beach actually belongs to the shacks -and above all "Zebop by the sea" at Utorda.Every sea-food item at Zebop is Dige-licious .One must try the "Mussels Rava Fry" and "Prawns Curry Rice" to understand what I am saying.In case you want to try something more fancy in Seafood - try the Lobster Butter Garlic(1200 INR for a piece : serves 3 people) with steamed rice.

Theres lot more to write...lot more unique places...In time,I will!

Zebopping in Goa - Part II

2010-01-30T23:42:00.010+05:30

Apologies to all my readers for being away so long.I think what I developed was a "Blogger's Block".Nevertheless I am back...back with a bang.A bang that guarantees one quality post per week.Did I ever tell you that in Goa there is a place in Panaji called Fountainhas...that takes you to the laid back old days...that reminds you of the "Good ol susegad life"?

Fountainhas,which means small fountains is located at the heart of Panaji(Reach the Panaji Church and then ask someone) and has mostly the catholic community(of Portuguese Descent).The place has been listed in the Lonely Planet guide and has an amazing feel about it.

A visit to Fountainhas also means a visit to Mrs Linda D'souza's gastronomic restaurant called "Viva Panjim".The food is authentic(Please please try the Pork Sorpotel,Prawn Curry rice and the chicken cafreal), the service quite good(Considering the fact that you are in Susegad land) and the benches laid out in the narrow alley add to the rustic charm.

Goa has many thousand restaurants...but some are worth going.Here's a small list that wont let you down:

* Souza Lobo - Calangute - Prawns,Prawns,Prawns

* Fiorentinos -on way from Porvorim to Calangute - Chicken Cafreal

* Casa Moderna - Panjim(Near National Theatre) - Rawas Fish Fry

* La Pastelaria - 18th June Road - Pastries Galore

* Kamat Hotel - Panaji(Near Panaji Church) - Great Veg Thali

I guess I could be pretty pissed off about my 0900 AM to 0900 PM job schedule,grumpy about no increments in 2009,or about the fact that India again lost a cricket match...or whatever!

"But it's hard to stay mad when there's so much beauty in the world. Sometimes I feel like I'm seeing it all at once, and it's too much. My heart fills up like a balloon that's about to burst. And then I remember to relax, and stop trying to hold on to it. And then it flows through me like rain. And I can't feel anything but gratitude for every single moment of my stupid little life"

(Excerpt from Americal Beauty - Narrated by Kevin Spacey)

Aint that apt?

Zebopping in Goa - Part III

2010-02-11T20:59:00.015+05:30

Taken at Utorda Beach - Dec 2009 while sitting and sipping golden froth in one of the manyshacks that cater to the vast foriegners and sparse Indians in this region.
Sunset at Utorda Beach.It is a great feeling to move to a quiet corner, move into the water and seep into the golden calm of the evening low tide.
I wonder what the guy whos upside down is singing - probably "Stuck in the middle with you".By the way there are two people because one is a local guide(hes alright in the pic)

(Parasailing at Utorda Beach - 800 INR(Negotiated) per ride)

Time Stops in Calcutta - Docking at Dacres Lane!

2010-03-13T19:30:00.009+05:30

I will take the liberty in this post to call Kolkata as the Good Old Calcutta.I have mentioned it before in one of my earlier post that in Calcutta - sometimes time stops.It really does!There are nooks and corners in this city which suddenly makes you forget that you are living in this "Neo Modern - Heavy on Pocket - Mentally Stressing" era!

Take a walk down Dackers Lane and you will know what I mean.For the Calcutta Initiated, Dacres Lane is between Esplanade Row and Waterloo Street.Nevertheless,for the occasional Calcutta visitor like me,walk down straight from the famous K.C.Das and after about 100 meters you will see a lane to your right.If you are there about 1.00 PM onwards, you will instantly recognize Dacres Lane by the sight of a number of office going people sitting on benches and eating.I must confess that I went there on a Saturday and had my dad along to narrate me the history of this narrow lane.

Named Dacres Lane after Milner Dacres , then collector of Calcutta , this lane was for 200 years the eating grounds for Sailors from various countries.In the 19th century,especially after the British leaving , the tradition has been carried forward by the fiercely food loving Bengali's.The first picture given above are the Live Chinese Stalls(like Bangkok) , who make delicious Chinese Fare right in front of your eyes.My dad even swore that in his last 40 years, he hasn't heard anyone falling sick from their cooked delicacies.In front of these stalls is the famous Chittoda's Stall - known for its tongue tingling Ghoogni(A spicy chick-pea dish) , which is followed by the mind freshning tea given in the earthen cup - called as Bhadh(in Bengali)

After finishing your meal,please dont forget to taste the healthy and tasty Lassi prepared by the quiet Halwai (Sweetmeat Maker) , who sits beside Chittoda's.

Please go for this small one hour lunch visit to Dacres Lane, next time when you are in Calcutta.I assure you , that like me...you will also be surprised by the little money that goes out of your pocket(average gastronomic lunch : 80 -100 Rs , with Sweet Dish and Tea included) when you are here.

Singapore : The Lion City - Prelogue

2010-06-06T23:14:00.008+05:30

It's common enough to hear tits and bits about Singapore all the time...isn't it? Some friend or relative goes and comes back with the Duty Free whiskey and stories about how strict is the law in Singapore and how developed it is. Well no doubt, they are right...but what about the little things? Yours truly was recently in Singapore for the first time for a Digital Conference and in true terrainspotter style , I did try to seep up everything that I could - the modernity , the night life and of course the food.

The Modernity : (In the photo - Fairmont Hotel @ Bras Basah Road)

The Night Life : (The Riverside Point @ Clarke Quay)

The Food(Beef Red Chilly Fry and Chilly Crab @ Boat Quay)

Well, in true advertising style,that's the teaser!Read this space for the detailed travelogue!

Singapore : The Lion City!

2010-06-11T21:35:00.025+05:30

For a person living in the cacophony of a bustling Indian metro like Mumbai, the first glimpse of Singapore City reminds him/her of a "Real Estate Prototype Model". Tall high rises , clean wide roads and an impeccable MRT(Mass Rapid Transit) are part of the Singapore's Infrastructure that blows you away. Not surprising for the initiated though, as this country of 5 Million people is the world's fourth leading financial centre(Source : Wikipedia) and even tops Tokyo as its other Asian counterpart in terms of "Quality Of Life Index"(Source : Economist Intelligence Unit).

The first thing that one needs to know is the MRT service that connects straight from the Changi International Airport(Just after Immigration Check towards the left) and is the vein through which the city travels.There are four lines : Circle Line,Downtown line, Thomson Line and Eastern Region line. There are Interchange Stations(see below the circled stations) where one changes from one line to other. The locals are very courteous and will politely guide you in case confused.For example, if I am going to Chinatown then I will get down and Interchange at two stations - Paya Lebar(to Circle Line) and Dobhy Ghaut(To North West Line.

One thing you gotta be really careful with in Singapore is how you spend your money, or rather where. It's a mightily expensive city(guess its the charge they take to keep the city so clean) and in case your purse strings are tight coz you gotta do all that shopping,be very careful.The top hotels are all 300 - 400 $ + and even the 2-3 stars are costly. Before embarking on the journey,visit international travel sites like Tripadvisor and Expedia and try to get a picture!http://www.expedia.co.in/Hotels?rfrr=-0&#sb=10&st=1&nm=0&ar=180027&am=x&sd=15/6/2010&ed=16/6/2010&ad=1&pg=0\

Geylang is where one will find the really cheap ones(2500 INR - 3500 INR, Basic Amenities only i.e Bed and Bathroom).Though Geylang is the notorious Red Light District, yet for a bachelor this can turn out to be cheap and an effective stay. Little India and Chinatown have Hotels ranging from 4000 - 6000 INR and are good options too. The added attraction in Little India is the Mustafa Shopping Arcade for Indians(open uptil 3 AM) which is a great place to shop for Electronic Items.

Food again is one of the big highlights of Singapore - especially if you are open to experimentation. Then again, theres a word of caution here too - eat where the crowd is, else you will be overcharged. One of the unique experiences to walk through the narrow lane at Boat Quay or sitting at one of the shacks to try out some seafood. Theres fierce competition so negotiate as much as you can and you might get a Pitcher free/Two pints free - totally depends.

The Beef Satay and the Spring Rolls with Beer is a must try Starter Course. In the Main Course, in case you wanna try Crab, check the per 100 gm rate first(normally 5-6 Sing $/100 gms) and then order(1 Kg needed for two foodies).

You can have the traditional Pork Meat rice along with the Chilly Crab.Overall a meal for two(with Beer) at the Boat Quay will cost you anything between 100 -120 Sing $.After you finish your meal,walk down by the numerous bars and surely you will be called by the Filipino girls sitting outside. There are plenty of them outside every bar and you can walk inside and have a beer with them and leave.I did not see any hanky panky(am not sure what goes on beyond serving beers) and rather sat and chatted away with this Bar dancer called Michelle from Philippines.It was nice sitting with a complete stranger and telling her about India,the roads, the people and the Himalayas.

Clarke Quay is the sophisticated version of Boat Quay and is probably the party place of the Singapore Corporate audience.On a Friday evening even at 0100 AM, this place is hustling and bustling. One of the craziest thing to do is to do a Reverse Bungee Jump near the riverside inside a pod.One cant explain the rush but I will try!They put you in a pod(secured) and hurl you upwards(about 200 Ft) at 200 Km/hr and then the pod swings merrily and comes hurtling down and again goes up.The ride costs 45 Sing $ but trust me - its worth it!Moreover at 200 Ft , you can see the whole of Singapore upside down - hows that for an experience! There are numerous pubs all around and the most unique one is Clinic - a dummy hospital that serves alcohol with nurses as waiters.

(Image Source : Travelerfolio.com)

Sentosa Island is something that one must visit in order to understand the architectural effort that must have gone it to make this man made haven.Be it the Universal Studios, Butterfly Park or the Luge rides, Sentosa is a whole day of Fun and Frolic(Perfect for families with young children).

My favourite at Sentosa was the Cafe Del Mar where I could dip my feet into pool and sip on my LIIT. The poolside bar overlooked the sea and with relaxing lounge music playing, one could not ask for more.

Overall, Singapore is a great experience. The food, Modern Malls(visit Takashimaya to see the world famous labels - even if you cant buy them!),the polite people, the amalgamation of cultures(Indians,Thais,Chinese etc) all make you want to go back again and again and again...and "Go back" I will!

Lake Placid

2010-07-18T21:22:00.011+05:30

Lonavla is truly the home away from home for all Mumbaikars.It's 40 Minutes from Panvel, easy to reach...and does have a great cloudy & cool weather from mid June to September.There's just one small problem - "The Crowd". When a destination becomes generic for a whole city, there is bound to be trouble...and trouble comes in the shape of "Availability of Hotels", "Quality of Food" and "Unrealistic Rate Demands"(Both in terms of stay and food).

That is why Pawna Lake is the perfect getaway, and go there while its still desolate(I just read in the papers that Bollywood/Business sector is buying Bungalows by the dozen there). Pawna Lake is an artificial lake formed by the a Dam built across the Pawna River nearby Lonavala. About 11 Km's from Lonavla, the road leading to the lake is very beautiful. You drive through quiet villages that silently greet you from their slumber, green ghats that lay tall on both your sides and a weather that is to kill for(Be ready to get wet,as theres a slight drizzle always during the period mentioned by me above)

Don't expect to find places to stay at Pawna Lake as there are no Hotels.I hope it remains that way and there are only some select high priced resorts available in the future to avoid the "Aam Janata". In case you dont know what I mean, go on a Saturday evening to Bhushi Dam or Lions Point.Tourist swarm like mosquitoes and a cup of cutting chai costs 10 INR!!!Need I say more?

Will keep searching for offbeat places within the vicinity of Mumbai NCR....Keep Reading!

Tequila Sunrise

2008-04-18T15:39:00.005+05:30

For some articles on my site,WORDS wont be necessary.This is one such post:-). Taken in early 2006 at 0630 AM , on the the Goa Border...this photo does remind you of "Tequila Sunrise".

The Beach Boys,Quicksand,the unseen python and Skull Island

2008-04-16T01:46:00.003+05:30

Long long time ago, an angry young man(A),an eccentric mathematician from IIM calcutta(V),a budding SEM specialist(G),An unknowing Editor(R) who was a Victim of our drunken binges and yours truly me had this crazy idea about travelling in a Hyundai Santro from Delhi to Goa.For days and nights, they battled Highway Trucks,Ghosts and calls of nature to reach Goa. While coming back from Goa, the road was again long and hard and a rest was in everybody's mind...at least for some time. Thus the foursome(Editor saab had dicided that he would rather spend an air ticket than travel with us:-)),dicided to check out Kelva beach.Kelva Beach is located at at 140 kms from Mumbai or 30 kms off the Mumbai - Ahmedabad Highway Via Manor and Palghar.Since we were coming from Goa and had taken the Thane road, it was not too long a detour.
The road to Kelva makes you feel that you never left Goa,and shows the natural wonder of Konkan.

Easygoing ghats that greet you taking you up and down across the terrain,always make you feel as if like you, the western ghats are on a HIGH!As you come down to ground level, the coconut trees welcome you and as you go up, they suddenly vanish!!!Finally we reached Kelva at a nice time(Noon) and realised immidiately that we had come to a more than nice place.Kelva gives you a feeling of Time just stopping...Then and There! Villagers seem to had suddenly got a whiff of outsiders and they look at us with suspicious glances. The local hens suddenly flap their wings hard and try to escape. Its all as if we had invaded the place.We asked people about guest houses and places to stay or eat for a while and all they exchanged in return was a smile and a two way nod.

Anywhichways,the first impression of the beach is pathetic. The waves are non existent,the sand is dirty and rotten fish smells abound.But look up and around and suddenly things change. The smell of the tall cypress trees combine with the pleasant wind and the rotten fish smells to give you a new aroma-a good one too. Suddenly eccentric mathetician(V), while dirtying the sea further with his bladder pressure antics points ahead-just like Mr Colombus,"Hey Guys,look,SKULL ISLAND!". Well,with Mr V, trust him and his presence of mind to come up with innovative names and anecdotes at all times.We look ahead and soon understand that he is quite right. About 2 Km ahead of us is the strangest of Islands,one that we have seen in Phantom Comics. An Oval shaped island,full of long Cypress trees...it almost seemed unreal."Lets go, what are we waiting for", said Mr V. So we went!

After walking leisurely for about 2 Km, we reached near Skull Island. In reality folks, Skull Island has been made by the government to facilitate plantation:-). But since the name "Skull Island" is so terrific, thus its hard to let go.While coming back, we realised something new- The tide had risen,It was High Tide time. So the way through which we came was blocked with water. There was no other way. Mr V led the way fearlessly. Angry Young Man(A) went after him and me with a trepid heart followed my two good friends. The budding SEM specialist(G), was still looking for Optimisation Solutions for enhancing call to action:-), but soon followed us. Once in the water, Mr V suddenly shouted and said that he felt a Python. We all froze then and there. Mr V and Mr G had an argument over the python and its existence. Mr A and me were not amused because, there was quicksand around.With every ensuing argument on Truth Conversion, we were going down. Finally , two fishermen came to our rescue and guided us the right path and we came out alive.

We did start for Delhi in the next two hours, but not before taking a nice freshwater bath near the Kelva town temple. Although this incident happened in Jan 2006, its still etched in my mind because of the above wonderful people,beautiful landscapes and the strange Skull Island pythons.

Watch this space for more posts!

Cheers

Stay at Kelva Beach : There are many budget hotels in and around Kelva since its a weekend getaway for many Mumbaikars.For an idea of the same visit http://tinyurl.com/2a4whfs.The rates are sensible and there are various options as per budgets,although you might have to take up a hotel a little away from the beach.

I Drove All Night

2008-04-15T01:26:00.004+05:30

If I start writing my blog after each fresh trip, I think articles from me would be hard to come by! It was a humid evening of Mar 2005,and I with a trembling heart was packing my stuff at my Lajpat Nagar bachelor pad, and going towards Linda(As I told in my earlier article, my M800 car is called Linda). Three days back, I had suddenly dicided to go on a lone trip. I was turning through the pages of the latest Outlook Traveler guide, which was easy to source out for me because I was a Senior Media Planner then and the perks that you got in media planning to compensate for your low salary were the “Free Parties” and the “Free Copies”.

A place called Binsar struck my eye. Situated 20 Km uphill of Almora,this was the place where Jawaharlal Nehru spent a lot of his leisure time.It was situated well in the heights – about 2400 Mts.I got stuck on Binsar from the first go!Picking up my stuff I trudged towards my car. I had my cassette player, one quarter of rum and an eagerness to know the unknown!This article friends is not really about Binsar, but my drive which led me there!!!I mean I am sure you will get countless articles on the net on Binsar, but this I believe is a little rare.So here it goes:

The drive from Delhi to Kathgodam can be summed up as a topsy turvy ride.There were moments of sheer joy and wonder and there would be moments of pain getting stuck in some highway jams .Since I started in the evening, I had crossed Moradabad by 8 PM and soon I had reached Rampur.The road from Rampur to Rudrapur at night is beautiful,mysterious and dark.The highway is single lane, narrow and one always needs to be on his/her toes or being more precise the toes need to be flexible enough to move from accelerator to brake and vice versa. But believe me, the feeling of driving through that unknown highway with Chris Rea singing “Josephine” on my cassette player…I had what I term as “A Mental Orgasm”. I remember still vividly at 11 PM in the night the sky was cloudy and there was a storm brewing. Through my cars window pane I could see a lightning at one end of the sky, quickly going to the other end and hear that thunderous yet delicate sounds of thunder. I made a nightstay at Rudrapur at a seedy hotel and started again in the morning. Probably one of the most beautiful streches of road that I have been has to be the Rudrapur – Haldwani – Kathgodam stretch. Lined with Pine and deodar trees, the drive is one that gets etched in your mind forever.When you reach Kathgodam and first see in front of you the Mighty Himalayas,it grips you! For someone like me who had never driven on the highway before, forget having ever driven on the hills, it was a strange feeling.

With a strong heart , I dicided to venture further. Actually folks, in case like me you have not done hill driving before,try it. The feel of each turn, each bend making the air a slight bit chillier, the feel of the unseen and the tightening of the muscles in every steep bend. By the way, it’s no surprise seeing big cars with their drunken drivers overtaking at bends. I want to give a bit of an education here and I am sure my friends will agree: “Drinking and Driving is a experience in itself,an exhilarating feeling and although illegal, in case you are driving with a drink by your side…the least you can do is “FOLLOW THE BASIC TRAFFIC RULES”.

After a drive of around 3 hours from Kathgodam, Ranikhet beckons you. An army cantonment, a huge parade ground, a bustling marketplace they all await you. The penultimate drive from Ranikhet to Almora is journey through clear hilly roads with trees all around,small waterfalls appearing from nowhere and a clear unobstructed views of the great Himalayan peaks.

Almora is hardly a town with any natural beauty. Its more a business centre for that region. About 20 Km from Almora is Binsar and would you believe it…you have to pay toll tax to enter Binsar: As its a heritage place! Although this article will not speak on Binsar yet if you can stay at the Khali Resort (Single Room – 2000 per nights with food included).Rest if you want cheaper call the KMVN numbers from the Uttaranchal Tourism site and get going.
So that was it…I DROVE ALL NIGHT…AND THE REST OF THE DAY…AND FOUND MOMENTS OF SOLITUDE WITH THE UNKNOWN!!!

Stay at Binsar : There are basically three options that are tried and tested.The first and the cheapest one is of course the KMVN(Kumaon Mandal Vikas Nigam - Book from Delhi Number 011-23712246, 23746433, 23746431 or go to www.kmvn.org) guest house, but do try to book one month in advance as rooms are very very hard to get.In case your purse strings and loose, then feel comfortable to check into either Khali Estate (http://tinyurl.com/2cd6vjp) or Club Mahindra(http://tinyurl.com/23dd6u9)

Camping at Jim Corbett - Salvation Lies Within!

2008-03-24T12:10:00.007+05:30

Before packing my bag at 7 in the morning, the first thought that occurred in my mind was “Why of all the treks and trails in India, was I going to Corbett? Isn’t that where fat uncles and aunties and office groups gather around in numbers to see that blissful sighting of that Tiger Paw Footprint i.e. if they are lucky! “Naaaaaaaah…you’re being sarcastic Saurav”…I said to myself. “Things will just work out fine”. My partner in this sojourn to Dhikuli Camp in Corbett premises was Jayanto Sarkar (My office collegue) and Linda. Linda is my four year old M800, and I call her lovingly so because of the stickiness she has shown to me over these years.

Bags packed we started for NH24 highway via Gaziabad and Hapur. For people who are looking to travel to Uttaranchal, its always better to start as early morning as possible,as the road from Garmukteshwar ghat to Moradabad is a pain in the butt(Literally as your butt feels all the pressures of driving). I and Jayanto should have realized this and started at 5 AM instead of 7 AM, as we encountered what we would now call as the “JAM OF THE CENTURY”(Haha,I know that’s a tall claim but anyway…Let me also have my kicks). What is really worthy writing is the Origin of the jam, because there was none! You see, brothers! In North India there are three kinds of drivers I have figured out after years of driving:

Driver Type 1) Chagal Lal : Chagan drives Duggal saabs car and he has send Chagan to Moradabad to deposit a package. Chagan has wasted away the first three hours with his fellow Jats discussing about the latest bone that Vicky his friend broke. Chagan has just one hour now to drive down to Moradabad(still 100 Kms away) and suddenly the NH24 has become an EA sports NFS game. He honks,Tonks and whizzes past everyone. Is it a superman,Batman…No…Its Chagan!

Driver Type 2) Mr Sharma and Family and their Honda Accord : Mr Sharma has recently bought his prized Accord and its time to Show Off its extensive wizardry to his Family and himself. Anyone besides Chagan who overtakes Mr Sharma watch out, he will come back for you. He will be speeding up behind you, flash his Accords high beam and then give a smart right indicator sign and then honk the melancholy horn. With all this show off, you got to be someone other than Chagan to not less him pass you by.

Driver Type 3) Mr Saurav Chakraborty,Jayanto and their M800 : DRIVE STRAIGHT @ 60-80. Let Mr Sharma pass by(Admire his car by the way) and definitely let Chagan pass. If you meet someone like yourself on the way, do race a bit but!

Anywhichways, the jam from Garmukteshwar to Gajroula lasted two and a half hours and it seeped a lot of our morning energies out.We reached Moradabad at 1 PM(Phew!) and post that it was bliss. Fellas, If you are looking for a peaceful 60 Km/hour drive through a one lane well built road lined up with tall trees(Mango,Neem Eucalyptus etc) on both sides, the Devipura – Ramnagar stretch is PERFECT!In fact the drive was so good that we kind of forgot all about Moradabad,Gajroula and the great driving class of India.

Corbett,Dhikuli,Dhakala and Dhela:

The idea of this blog from this first article will be not to give geographical facts. I am not a researcher and I don’t intend to do that. I will nevertheless tell some facts that I know of or came to know. Corbett is spread over 520 Sq Km’s of area and Dhikala is the place of all places to stay. It’s a forest bunglow deep into the jungle(about 43 Km’s from Ramnagar). The jungle is not a problem, but bookings are! Dhikala is KMVN’s(Kumaon Mandal Vikas Nigam) other holiday camp(about 10 Km’s) from Ramnagar. Dhela(15 Km’s from Ramnagar) is the newest camp that started in Dec’07, and the one that we were sent to(A blessing in disguise as our original booking was at Dhikuli). Anywhichways if you guys ever need to book in any of these places do make call to (0594)7251225. This is the number of the Tourist Reservation Centre situated in Ramnagar. In case you want to do your booking from Delhi, do call 011-23746433 and talk to Mr Phahlad (Bit beware, because Mr Prahlad has a habit of booking without confirming with TRC ,Ramnagar).

The Stay At Dhela :

If you are expecting Dhela camp to bustle with energies of Adventure,Adventure and trekking plans, Its not the place for you. If you ARE looking to stay at a place far away from civilization and within the shades of trees and green fields, it is the perfect place for you. I and Jayanto were looking for exactly that and the place fitted the bill to perfection.We settled into our tent in the evening at around 7 PM, and then started to look for a good drinking ground. We had a bottle of Old Monk(My favourite drink) with us, and the monk was calling us. There was a very good spot below a huge tree, with tables and chairs all put in place but a group of young bloods from Meerut were there and they created quite a scene the whole night.

Well, that brings me to my new psychology of an emerging youth phenomenon(Please Bear) :

The Clockwork Orange (Indian Version) : The gang leader is Amit(Amit Jain is his good name and friends call him Chintu). Amit has his loyal sidekicks Vicky,Hardeep(A hotheaded sardar) and golu(A dumbwitted fat bastard). The sole objective of Amit and his gang is to fuck up everything that is good in the surroundings near them. So soon and I and Jayanto hear in the quiet serene surrounding, the loud music of Jazzy B from their car stereo. Every phrase of Mika was followed by “Oi ****hod” , “**and Mar De Sabki” and some well chosen profanities. Also if someone came and told them to play the music a little lower, they would say “Kya Problem Hai,Haan?” Holi hai aaj…Holi…Nacho Nacho hamare saath. And god forbid if there are girls around, cause the cupid’s in Amit and others come to life after a “Whiskey In a Jar”. So “Hi Sweety” “Tccchh Tccchh” and “Aaati hain Kya” are common flirt lines that they slur out. If the girls go away, Amit will proudly say to his bunch “Aisi Ladkiyon ko toh main ghas bhi nahi daalta”. Oh Amit and gang, I really wish you guys stay an endangered species and don’t become abundant is future!

Food at Dhela Camp : In case you are food lover and not the package meals sort, you will love Dhela. Go while its still new as they come and take the order for Luch Dinner and Breakfast(You need to just pay for the raw material cost. Only Chicken Mutton and Fish guys, No Pork Or Beef and My Muslim Brothers, all Jhatka out here, No halal,so might be problematic for you guys on the Non Veg Front). We had a guy called Diwan servicing us and for two days, we sipped our Rum and Coke and got Pakoras, Fried Fish(Mahaser- A Pahari River Fish),Fried Chicken,Fish Curry, Egg Curry and a host of Veg Dishes. Breakfast normally is either Aloo Paratha or Puri Bhaji, but you can ask for Omellette toast too.

I and Jayanto got a chance to also go and visit on the second day, Garjia mata temple. It’s a beautiful temple located on the river bed(Kosi River streaming down) and I got a chance to ask Mata for all the things that I wanted desperately to work out in my life. I hope that my wishes would be granted.Garjia is located 20 Km from Ramnagar and it’s a must see for both religious and scenic purposes.

Some Useful Facts : Dhela Camp is about 274 Km’s from Delhi. The accommodation per person/night is 600 Rs (Includes Breakfast,Lunch and Dinner). Unless you are absolutely desperate, be careful about Jeep Safaris, as all you might end up seeing with the Dhela Guide Mr Bhagat are Peacocks, Roosters, Deer and Squirrels. Yes, I know that’s sad, but that’s the truth. We were told by a team of parrots for two days how the small pond inside the camp was used by elephants to drink water and how hard the authorities were trying to stop them from coming inside. In the two days of our stay, we hardly saw Buffoloes or Monkey even coming to the pond. The moral of me saying all this is simple : Dhela is a great place to Chill Out in a quiet peaceful way with your food, drinks and a great staff. Think about Life, the things that life brings with it, and the puzzle that life becomes! But I am sure, sitting in the serene fields of Dhela, you will think about the puzzle called life, and love it more.

After all, we got ONE life, and we gotta LIVE IT UP!

Cheers!
Saurav
(The New Travel Blogger On The Block)

Highway On My Plate

2008-04-17T15:21:00.003+05:30

I have been in Delhi for about 6 years now.In the first two years, I did not have my own car.My roommate(T and his brother S),had one and we used to roam around from here to there in their M800.Initially we used to travel within Delhi,but slowly we also started going to Noida and Gurgaon.My three roommates(T,S and A) have their hometowns in Alwar(Rajasthan), and were always telling me the great night drive they had coming back from there.Thats how the entire "Night Driving" frenzy got to my head.

First and foremost,my description of a great night drive is:

"A great night drive is one in which you are "Comfortably UnSober" in mood and thought.You drive through an open,clean,dark road with minimal traffic congestion.Your speedometer indicates only the speed that you are comfortable with and theres a stop in between the ride to eat and sip hot tea/snacks.In case the night is chilly or cold,its the most perfect ambience!!!.A great night drive is also one which gives you a fantastically peaceful and satiating morning sleep"

The place that I have trudged again and again in my Linda(By now, I will not say who linda is...grrr...please see my previous posts),is Greater Noida Expressway.Believe me Delhites, if you have not done a Greater Noida ride post 11 PM on a weekday, you have missed something.Even if you dont miss something, the open and wide roads of the expressway will keep you going through the morning and evening jams for at least a week or two.

Although I can recount many memories of mine through this vast expanse of the expressway,my blog is not just about my "lifes random musings".So let me take you through the best means and ways to enjoy the expressway at night.

1) Start at preferably 10 or 11 PM.A light evening snack(both solid and liquid:-)) is preffered because that gets you in the mood.

2) Choose beforehand the music you wanna play once inside. I myself prefer Soft Rock(Rea,Jackson Browne,Knopfler,Van Morrisson) and Blues(Gary Moore,Robert Cray) during such sojourns.

3) Dont waste all your energies at the Delhi and Noida roads.In case you are carrying some more snacks(Dark Liquid drink more preferably on a chilly night:-)),then start having it once you reach the expressway.

4) Normally this ride is best in a group or at least with one companion. The reason is simple.You need someone to talk to during such a lovely quiet drive, and also by chance if the spirits that you are having take over, then you have someone to stand by you.

5) Please do not stop by to romance or loiter on the expressway.There are patrol cars all around and I have been a victim once and it took all my nocturnal abilities with policewallahs to get me and that person out of trouble.

6) Although there are bright lights on the expressway, do look for a stretch which does not have lights and if its a full moon night - that stretch is bliss.

7) While on the back, do stop at sector 62 near Fortis Hospital and ask for the "Omelletwallah".Believe me guys n gals, this guy sits only at night behind Fortis Hospital, and makes these awesome "Bun Omellette" which will blow your brains out.

8)Dont forget to watch closely while driving around the bends and the lights passing by.If you look very closely for some time, its as if "YOUR LIFE IS PASSING YOU BY".

I hope some of you will try this trip(not necessary the way I told you to,Im sure!) someday.Do comment back and let me know how it was.Did you feel rejuvinated,revitalised or was it a sheer waste of fuckin expensive petrol:-)?

About Me!

2008-07-20T18:22:00.004+05:30

Since childhood,I remember the excitement that used to spurn inside of me, whenever my father planned on taking us to a vacation,or even when moving to a new locale. Each journey seemed like an adventure, as if into a new void - waiting to be explored.Growing up across the varied terrains of India(UP, Orissa, Goa and Bengal), I always wanted to pen down my thoughts(past and present) once I discovered the magical world of Internet.What started in 2008 as a way to pass my time,has resulted into 110 posts that cover my observations on the terrains,cultures,food and people I have encountered over the last 30 years of my existence.

Terrainspotter is not a "Travel Portal" , and neither is it a "Booking Engine". All I want to tell you, is my travel experiences, and will hope that it helps you in finding out a wholly new dimension about the destination, when you reach there.

An Advertising man by profession, churning out media numbers and analyzing them are part of my daytime chores:-)

You can reach out to me at sauravch@gmail.com and even touchbase with me at 91-9920752742.

Happy Terrainspottin!

The Mental Orgasm Theory - Part 9(Satiated)

2009-08-16T23:36:00.010+05:30

The beauty of the Western Ghats in the rains can only be understood once you visit them.

Just stand beside the edge of the cliff,take a whiff of the fresh air and seep in the wonderful sight!

Moreover the roads are a joy to drive on!You feel like stopping after short spurts of driving and get out of the car to feel the hills and savour the view!

Song,Loharkhet and Dhakuri - The Lost Villages!

2009-10-16T16:57:00.018+05:30

The foundations of the Pindari Glacier trek that I undertook with Mr Badru,started from a place called Song.Song is a small and beautiful village about 199 Km's from Kathgodam(The place till where Indian Railways takes you).Kathgodam is a low lying workmanlike town and the real beauty starts once the jeep starts winding up from Bhowali(30 Km's).

From then on,you are taken on a picturesque yet topsy-tipsy-curvy ride besides river after river,stream after stream,crossing Almora(109 Km's) and Bageshwar(164 Km's) until you hit what looks like a dead end(See Photo)

The bridge adjoining Song to Loharkhet frequently collapses due to rains and landslides,and thus there's a separate solitary jeep which takes travellers 3 Km's up to Loharkhet.The ride is scary as hell as there IS no road...just a pile of rocks with a sheer drop on one side.The pahadi's(Mountain men) call this driving feature as "Mausam banake chalna"(Driving in one weather mode!).Beats me how they find humour in such situations:-).

Loharkhet gives a great view of what's to come - wave upon wave of green hills that we have to cross!Loharkhet has a forest rest house,and we halted there at night.The stay was more than comfortable(In case you are the kind of person who looks for a clean bed to be satisfied at the end of the day).Since Loharkhet is a halting place before the start of the trek,one sleeps early and gets up early,because the hardest part of the trek lies ahead - THE UPHILL TREK TO DHAKURI.

Loharkhet to Dhakuri is a continous 11Km upward trek.It's tiring,hard,neverending,but the cool air hitting your sweat buds keeps you pleasant....and Mr Badru in this photo epitomizes my thoughts.

The vegetation starts getting greener and greener as one treks up,with the temperature dropping accordingly.There are tea/maggi stalls every 4/5 km's so one can take a well deserved break.

Dhakuri top is my Switzerland of India:-).I was mesmerized when I reached here after such a long and winding road.All perspirations,fatigue and frustations vanished when I saw the above picture in real.

On a clear,non cloudy day,the great himalayan peaks like "Baijuri","Nanda Khat" "Changus" and Pindari Glacier" are all clearly visible from Dhakuri.In fact our guide told us that many people return back from Dhakuri itself,as they feel that they have seen what they wanted i.e the mighty peaks!

Obviously I amd Mr Badru did not do that and kept on going.My next post will talk about the further lost villages of Khati,Dwali and Purkhiya.Till then...keep reading this space.

The Hills are alive... - Pindari Glacier Trek (Prelogue)

2009-10-14T09:16:00.008+05:30

Near the Pindari Glacier,the wind sings its own tune and the hills seem to orchestrate the entire melody.The rocks lie cold and bored with wrinkles formed due to years of wear and tear.

The Icy peaks stand proud and upright,defiant of storms and thunders and whatever beckons.They await the next brave men who will attempt to cross their icy path.

And then as one goes far,the valley and the peaks look even more intimidating from a distance,as if daring a novice like me not to come any closer.

It was not easy reaching all the way up there,as shown in the photos.It took 3 days of trekking and a bit of lady luck,combined and spiced with danger and the occasional adrenalin rush.Read this space for more on that.

A day at the village - Part I(Getting There)

2009-01-26T22:25:00.013+05:30

The way this trip happened is unique and it needs to be told.I(Athos),Mr Bassist(Aramis) and Mr Hunter(Porthos) are sitting and sipping whisky,when suddenly Athos tells Porthos,"I wanna go somewhere out of Delhi this weekend".Porthos looks up and says,"Let's Go!".Aramis looks at us and smiles and says..."all in good time,guys.Don't rush!".By the time he has finished talking,Athos goes off to pack his bags and Porthos starts talking on the phone to some guy called Subhash.

5 minutes passes,the bags are packed,the calls are made and our last trip partner Aramis is zapped.Anywhichways,he had his anniversary the next day...so he can be forgiven.But I do want to point out that true travel lovers do not worry about where,when,how or how much...as long as it means...getting away from the madding crowd!

Subhash incidentally used to work with porthos in his last company and looks up to him in a big way.What I(Athos) got to know soon is that Subhash's hometown is a village called "Nangli" and it's in Rajasthan near Alwar(60 Km's away from it actually)...and that's where we were going!

Lonesome Dhabas - A sudden ray of light on a dark highway

It's about time I wrote this because it's a topic that's very close to my heart.I don't know if you people who travel along the highways for fun,business or whatever,ever notice the ambiance and hospitality of the nameless dhabas that we stop by to have tea and bread butter.The characteristics of these dhabas are listed below:

1.Almost all Dhabas in the North are called "Vaishno Dhaba" or "Sharma Dhaba".Do not expect any Non Veg...even Egg.

2. All these dhabas have two-three(or sometimes even more) wooden beds...and anyone who is tired is welcome to take a nap.

3. The invitation of sleeping there for free comes with the danger of listening to heavy,jarring,ridiculously funny haryanvi music videos.If you can tolerate that...do sleep by!

Porthos and his great driving & the dreaded Banyan tree

Porthos is an amazing driver and there's no two ways about it.Incidentally before starting this trip,Porthos had not slept for two days.His driving surprisingly never shows it and he has this knack of driving very fast yet putting the pillion at complete ease.We had left Delhi at 1 AM and by 6 PM...we had crossed Alwar city and the dawn was approaching us.Frankly the distant red sky looks like a rectangular ball of fire ready to come towards you!

Porthos had for a long time talked about this huge Banyan tree that he saw during his last trip to this same place.Banyan trees,locally all across the world is considered both sacred by the day and haunted by the night.I and Porthos saw the tree and were amazed by its size.Almost 50 Mt's wide and 70 Mts tall...this tree was an amalgamation of roots,shoots and further offshoots.
All the while that we were at the Banyan Tree,Subhash was speechless and scared to death during the morning hours.We gave a damn to Subhash's superstitions because in front of the tree was bliss(See below):

The view of these endless mustard fields(or Sanson ke khet) as we call in Hindi reminded me of Kajol and made me think of myself as a kkkk...sorry...Shah Rukh:-).

If Mustard fields were not enough,in front of us was this winding village road...as Kuccha(not machine made) as it can get...and god knows leading where to!Maybe Santosh and Porthos knew...but I(Athos) did not...and frankly...he did not want to!He was loving it all anywhichways!
To add more to my new style wanderlust,nearby there was a cattle shack...with Buffaloes and Goats eating their feed peacefully and calling out to each other once in a while.I knew what was coming once we reached the village...and I could hardly hold my excitement.

Can you?

Keep reading then!

Myriad Dreams at Khati!

2009-10-19T13:54:00.012+05:30

From Dhakuri top,it's a downhill trek of 8 Km's to the beautiful town of Khati.Khati lies at a height of about 7600 Ft,surrounded by all sides by the mighty himalayas.

Khati looks like a town...that's long lost in time.10 A.M in the morning and you will see people playing cards,snakes and ladders,Carrom and have the least care in the world about earnings and moolah.The best thing to do in Khati is to sit at the wooden benches besides the stalls and sip your tea as the clouds pass you by.

If you are bored with the tea and the sitting a wee bit,then take a 2 Km downward trek to the Pindar river,which especially during rains...looks scary to say the least...with rapids well above level 4.(ferocity of Rapids are are identified by levels : 1-5).

In the evenings,sit on the cottage balcony and take a look at the silence around you...the occasional cattle's grazing by...the stray mountain dog looking for pieces of food on the wet grass.

One of the scariest natural things that you see around Khati are the Landslides.Imagine,you are standing on the hilly landscapes and suddenly the ground beneath you collapses.Gives me the shivers even thinking about it.The villagers say that landslides can happen anytime and there are no signs...but any ground that's loosely hangs from protruding rocks is considered dangerous.

We stayed two whole days in Khati,as we were stuck because of perennial rains.It was a great soul searching time for me in this quiet easygoing town.Khati is the last town going ahead which has solar powered STD booths.So traveller's to Pindari,Kafni,Sunderdungha or the basecamp...do make your calls here because then you get completely cut off from the world.

Do visit by for my next travelogue on the village by the Pindar rapids - Dwali

Dwali - The village by the river!

2009-10-19T19:48:00.012+05:30

Dwali is about 11 Kms from Khati Village.The entire journey is done besides the Pindar River,through narrow manmade lanes cut across the hills.In fact,i strongly believe that a Khati - Dwali trek makes you understand the true beauty of the great Himalayan valley.

There are scores and scores of waterfalls on the way,water coming out of low lying holes,water falling from 100 ft,water flowing besides you as you walk and water flowing below you as you walk.The entire trek to Dwali is the easiest,full of visual delights...with the cool river breeze hitting you all the time!

There are numerous rickety wooden bridges that pass on the way,which creak precariously and freak you out as you are on them.I also want to say a thank you through this site to my Travel Mate - Mr Badru for his Never-Say-Die spirit.A quiet person in nature,Mr Badru was far fitter than me(A true desi ghee khaya hua Punjabi Mumda) who did the entire Pindari Trek terrain without a single complaint.

Evenings are a great time in the hills,when you can see the dim red light of the sun set across the nearby hills.You see the clouds pass by and rub your shoulders.It's a great time to sum up your life till now and think practically about the future.In the above photo,Mr Badru seems to be doing just that.

Dwali indulges you in the simple pleasures.As you can see from the video,even simple Dal,Chawal and a double omelette can taste like heaven...WHEN YOU ARE IN HEAVEN!

Phurkhiya - At the edge of the mighty Himalayas!

2009-11-02T08:51:00.010+05:30

It is said that Pictures speak a thousand words.This is my 100th post on www.terrainspotter.com and I won't write anything about Phurkhiya.About 5 Kms uphill from Dwali(And really uphill)...Phurkhiya is the last junction with houses before Pindari Glacier,Kafni Glacier and Sunderdungha Glacier.

From Purkhiya,the peaks can be seen with amazing clarity,and the Pindari Glacier just seems a stones throw away.There is a KMVN(Kumaon Mandal Vikas Nigam) rest house here too,but bookings have to be done way way in advance.Thus it is advisable to bring your own tent.Eat properly before starting for Pindari the next day,as there are no dhabas or even tea stalls between Phurkhiya and Pindari.

Cheers to my 100th post.It took one and a half years to reach here:-).