Kashmir - God’s Canvas… Man's Paradise!
I will make a concentrated effort to avoid using the ‘paradise’ metaphor as I begin to share my experience of visiting the most revered of all valleys, Kashmir. Not only because it’s cliché but also because there’s much more to Kashmir than the post-card perfect scenic beauty. The first glance at Kashmir and you find yourself a believer in God’s aesthetic prowess. I say this because I had always wondered how different can it be from any other hill station? That was before the aerial views from Jammu to Kashmir made a believer out of me. Majestic hills - some snow-capped and engulfed in clouds, replete with ravines and a lush green you wouldn’t have seen anywhere. Experiencing Kashmir thus, begins right there and then as your flight descends to prepare for landing. For someone with a fear of flying, especially landing on a table top runway as in Srinagar, I was magically calm. That’s the first effect!
Srinagar greeted us with a weather that couldn’t have been better. A mild breeze, not cold enough for heavy woolens but cool enough for a light throw, flowed in to welcome us to the valley. Contrary to my expectations, the airport had a good many tourists, both Indians and foreigners and things looked commonplace enough.
No doubt there’s military presence in the capital, annoyingly so, but the locals seem oblivious to their presence. Things go on as usual and apart from one’s own paranoia nothing comes in the way of enjoying this blissful place. The people of Kashmir are very warm and hospitable. Our very first encounter was of course our driver who stayed with us for the next 5 days. Not only was he friendly, he was very helpful and cooperative considering we were a party of 4 adults with 3 children – all under 6. Yes! He was most understanding and cooperative. Since tourism has only just started to look back up, people throughout are not just cordial but a trifle delighted to see new faces. Even women and children are, after a moment’s hesitation, ready to talk in as much Urdu or English they know.
For those living in India, it’s absolutely simple. Flights are available to Jammu and Srinagar from almost all the major cities. Those with an adventurous streak can drive down from anywhere. Another option you can explore is flying to Jammu and then driving down to Srinagar, which is 302 KM (189 Miles) away. This drive on NH 1A promises to be the most spectacular as you pass Patnitop that offers the most breathtaking views of rolling hills interspersed with large patches of full-grown Deodar forests, indigenous to the region.
Flights from Delhi to Jammu cost anywhere between INR 3000 – INR 10,000, depending on the carrier and the time of the year; the flight onward to Srinagar costs anywhere between INR 2000 – INR 6000, again subject to carrier and time of the year.
The airports at both Jammu and Kashmir are well-maintained and airport transfers are easily available. Local taxis are also spotted so in case your hotel does not provide a pick, you have no reason to worry.
Shedding of Maple Leaves… autumn approaching
This obviously depends on the time of the year you’re visiting so if you wish to see snow in Srinagar, you must plan accordingly. The best time according to locals is March to October. The snow starts melting in March but it’s still around and a slight chill in the wind is usually welcome for those looking for a respite from heat. Speaking from experience, I’d say September was a great time to visit as there was little needed in the way of woolens and the weather was perfect for sight-seeing. It was even better because autumn was yet to set in and flowers bloomed throughout the gardens and the green Deaodar trees rose magnificently from the lap of Mother Nature.
Darrus-salaam hotel in Srinagar
Florist comes to the houseboat at Dal Lake
Floating post office at Dal Lake
Srinagar offers a plethora of options when it comes to accommodation. Moreover, unlike any other hill station in India, Srinagar offers the most scenic of all locations, the iconic Dal Lake as one of them. Enjoy the rare opportunity of staying in a houseboat on the Dal Lake and be enthralled by the romance of hailing a shikara to travel to and fro your houseboat. Since it’s in the centre of the town, you don’t feel cutoff from land. All houseboats are well-equipped and self-sufficient. They are visited by local services like laundry, florists, postal service and others, each morning so you needn’t worry about anything. You can easily spot hotels all over Srinagar, including better-known names, and they are also well-maintained and have efficient staff and good food. Our own stay was divided between a hotel and a houseboat so I can vouch for both. Since both offered views of the lake, mornings were a sight to behold. For info on the best hotel rates, please visit here : http://goo.gl/P5Va1
Waterfall in Shalimar Garden
Fountain at the entrance of the garden
There is a lot you can do in Kashmir if you have the spirit to explore. Within Srinagar, high on the list are the spellbinding Shalimar and Nishat gardens, which can put every florist you ever visited to shame and change the definition of ‘garden’ forever.
Deewan-e-Aam at the head of the Garden
Acres of green surrounded by the hills, man-made waterfalls to captivate the mind and a once opulent diwan-e-aam at the head of the garden to denote the royal footprint, all mark the prolific endevors of the Mughal emperor that envisioned them.
The Hazratbal Shrine
Another landmark you may wish to visit in Srinagar is the Hazratbal shrine. Literally meaning Majestic Place, the shrine is although not extraordinary in terms of architecture, it holds historical and religious value for Muslims. Built in the 1700s, the shrine houses a relic believed to be the hair of the Islamic prophet Mohammad (PBUH). It is, thus, considered the holiest shrine in Kashmir. The complex also houses a mosque so it is best to visit it at a time when no namaz is in progress. Tourists are only allowed during such hours however, if you wish to pray, you can walk in like in any mosque.
At Pehelgam – Rockstar of a place!
There are many places within a few hours’ drive away that are a must-see. To begin with, there’s Pehelgam. Most recently captured on silver screen in the Ranbir Kapoor movie ‘Rockstar’, Pehelgam is one of the most beautiful destinations with an equally breathtaking route. Prepare to be enamored by large open fields, a la Dilwale Dulhaniya Le Jaenge on both sides of the road that leads to Pehelgam. That’s right – it’s little wonder that Kashmir has captured the imagination of poets, movie-makers and the world at large alike.
Apple orchards By The Dozen
Once the paddy fields are through, you’ll notice hills covered with saffron plantation, strawberry trees, and of course, apple orchards by the dozen. If you’re lucky enough, the orchard owner might invite you inside to pick the amount of fruit you wish to buy. Since we were able to do so, I came back with memories wrapped in the fragrance of ripe, juicy apples.
Bats – manufacturing in process
Shave up for glory
If you’re a cricket fan, you’d love the next bit. Kashmiri willow bats are famous around the world and on our way to Pehelgam, we also witnessed the manufacturing process. My cricket crazy husband ordered three bats which were ready on the day of our departure.
Another sight that surprises you is trees and trees of walnuts – and people picking them, loading them in gunny bags, and taking them away to dry and harden the shell before sale. It’s quite a skill.
Lidder River in Pehelgam
Our hotel in Pehelgam was on the banks of river Lidder that flows, rather noisily, parallel to the route from at least 10 km before Pehelgam. So you see, you can experience a lot within a stretch of less than 100 km.
If you wish to see snow as late as September, then you must head to one of the higher altitude places like Sonmarg or Gulmarg. We chose the former as our driver-cum-guide told us we had better chances of visiting a glacier in Sonmarg.
The View From Sonmarg
The drive from Pehelgam to Sonmarg is again as scenic as can be. Owing to the military presence and their frequent use of the roads for heavy vehicles, the roads in Kashmir are in excellent condition and much broader than your run-of-the-mill hill station, so driving is not only pleasing to the eyes, it’s actually rather comfortable and safe.
View from hotel back window in Sonmarg
Accommodation options at Sonmarg are limited to a few hotels but we eventually found one which was both well-staffed and comfortable. The view however, was completely different. Instead of lakes, valleys or rivers, all we saw now was mountains. Snow-capped mountains with glittering ravines greet you in the morning as you gather yourself up from under the blanket and edge toward the dancing sunrays on the window panes.
Valley at the Foot of the Thajiwas Glacier
The Horse Trail ToThajiwas Glacier
The Thajiwas glacier is only accessible by horses, that too only to the foot of the glacier. The rest of the steep hill is to be covered on foot. This small trek takes about 30 minutes but the panting and gasping is all worth it. Break some ice, literally, and enjoy the little drops of the ice water as they fall at random.
Flock of sheep on our way to the Thajiwas Glacier
The Thajiwas Glacier
The horse ride is also part of the whole experience as it takes you from picturesque open fields where you can find a flock or two of sheep grazing away like in a movie. Enjoy the thrill and adrenaline rush as the horses tread on water while crossing over the river and then walk at the edge of rather narrow pathways on the hills. One of the most popular treks, the Thajiwas glacier receives more tourists than one could expect.
Trout – the yummiest fresh water fish indigenous to the region
The one thing that requires a special mention is the Kashmiri cuisine specialty called Wazwan. A traditional spread that includes seven delectable preparations ranging from tender meat balls (goshtaba and rista) to roasted mutton chops to spicy mutton curry (roghan josh) - a meat-lover’s delight, and of course, an experience of a lifetime.
Walnuts as made by nature… the outer green shell dries and reveals the shell it’s sold in
A whole page can be filled with various things you can get in Kashmir but I’ll just touch upon the ones not to be missed. Walnut wood carving is done in many parts of Kashmir and some exquisite pieces of furniture or other items, like a collectible chess set or home décor, can easily fit your pocket and your luggage. If you appreciate the fine things in life, you must take a look at the pashmina shawls and other fine wool items present at the state emporiums or other local shops. For those who prefer opulence in their houses, Kashmiri carpets are a must – check out at various shops before buying as prices are usually hiked. If you wish to buy souvenirs then Papier Machie is your best bet as you’ll find a variety of items in varying prices. Make sure you bag some fresh walnuts and saffron before you head home. The cherry on the cake however, is the market on Dal Lake. Yes, you read it right. A boat market convenes every evening at the far end of Dal Lake where the shops are floating on water and you can simply hop on to a shikara and buy everything from fabric to flowers to semi-precious jewels to weaves and the like. Don’t miss this.
Closure
Kashmir has experienced its maximum number of tourists this year in the last decade or so tourism is back on its feet there.There are many more places and things that you can explore in Kashmir and each will have its own character. So make sure you have a lot of time at hand when you visit this proverbial paradise – where green patches rest under blue skies, clouds float as though winds are flying kites, colorful routes beat with nature’s bounty… it is but God’s canvas, where he decorated each flower with affection. The high, determined peaks, the serpentine ghats, the tall and majestic deodar trees, carpets of roses, spring’s very own garden – it’s nothing short of a miracle born out of the imagination of the most revered poet, God!
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