Cherrapunji - The Place You Can't Say Goodbye To!
Imagine driving along a mountain road, a few thousand feet above sea level. The scenery – hills crested with pines and firs, deep valleys with gurgling streams below, a gentle sun shining upon you, bright but not sunny, and crisp, cool air. Typical of any Indian 'hill station'. But now imagine – it all vanishes in less than a minute, as a fog appears from nowhere, blanketing everything in sight. And then the name of the state strikes you – because you realise that you just drove into a cloud!
That's how Sohra or Cherrapunji in Meghalaya says hello to you!
The British name of Cherrapunji was officially changed to the historical name Sohra a few years back! The name Sohra, which was pronounced "Churra" by the British eventually evolved into the current name, Cherrapunji. The word "Cherrapunji" actually means 'Land of Oranges'.
Cherrapunji is 56 km south of Meghalaya's capital Shillong. You can get there from Shillong in three ways, depending on your budget. If you are willing to splurge, hire a car. This will let you stop at every fifty metres to photograph the irresistible scenery. Alternatively, you can share space in one of the taxis that ply regularly between Shillong and Sohra. But most recommended is that you take a minibus. The discomfort of overcrowding will be more than made up by the sweet-sounding Khasi songs playing on the sound system and the cheerful chatter of the people.
To get to Shillong is another matter. There are regular flights from most Indian metros to Guwahati (booked well in advance, it cost me Rs. 9000 for a Mumbai-Guwahati-Mumbai round trip). From the airport you can take a taxi to Guwahati city for lunch (try Delicacy on Guwahati-Shillong Road for a sumptuous Assam thali). Alternatively, taxis (costing between Rs. 1000 – 1500 depending on whether you hire an Indica or Innova) are available to get directly to Shillong, where there are hotels to suit every budget. You can prefer to stay in Shillong and make day trips to Sohra, or stay in Sohra itself.
It is best to go there just after the monsoon. Much of the rain will have finished falling, yet the hills will be green. Nevertheless, it rains through the year in the North East.
Cherrapunji Essentials: You are in Meghalaya, 'The Abode of Clouds', Umbrellas, raincoats, winchesters, are mandatory. If you think you'll enjoy singing in the rain like your favourite romantic screen couple, you are seriously understimating the quantity of rain. Strongly recommended is a rain cape – a huge sheet that covers you from head to toe and keeps you bone dry. You can get these in Shillong or Guwahati.
Try to get a home stay with the of the local residents. This will enable you to get a close look at Khasi customs and daily life. You can make prior arrangements with The Khasi Hills Autonomous District Council (KHADC) or with Meghalaya Tourism. Check their websites for more information. Alternatively, there are a few expensive resorts in Sohra, which have the advantage of organising tours around Sohra and food according to your preference. If you are more of a backpacker or spontaneous traveller, you can see if the local Ramakrishna Mission, or the Syiem's Office can arrange something.
Sohra is full of must-visit places. Between Sohra and Shillong is Mawphlang, famous for a sacred grove. It is home to a number of beautiful orchids, which you can see in bloom if lucky. Further on your way to Sohra is Duwan Sing Syiem Point, which is a Mahabaleshwar-esque 'point' from where you can view the surrounding hills.
(Duwan Sing Syiem Point)
Sohra is a 'Syiemship', one of twenty that make up the Khasi Hills. Each is ruled by a traditionally elected ruler called the Syiem, and his Durbar. If you happen to be in Sohra town during one of the Durbar days, do try to catch a glimpse of the elaborate ceremonies that take place.
Not far from the main Sohra town is Noh Ka Likai. It is the site of what is claimed to be the world's fourth highest waterfall. But you have to be very lucky and prepared to catch a glimpse of it – for most of the time, it is hidden among the clouds. The spectacle of seeing it in the few seconds between the passing of one cloud and the next – well, you have to experience it.
(Noh Ka Likai, World's Fourth Highest Waterfall on a Clear Day)
(Noh Ka Likai, seen through the dense fog)
There are quite a few other waterfalls which a local guide will take you around to. The cave in Mawsmai hamlet offers a rather different experience. It is a sacred cave of the Khasis, 150 metres long, and not very difficult to pass through. If you have never gone about exploring a cave, this gives you an introduction to the adventure sport of 'spelunking'.
(Inside Mawsmai Caves)
('Spelunking' Through The Mawsmai Cave)
And at last is Gol Hill or Bangladesh Point, from where you can catch a glimpse of the vast plains of Bangladesh, with the Surma (Sylhet) river in the distance. Again, this depends on your luck in the clouds clearing for long enough. You'll also see a curious rock formation there, based on which the Khasis have an interesting fairy tale.
(View Of Bangladesh)
(Curious Rock Formation)
(The Fairy Tale Based On The Rock Formation)
(Monoliths held sacred by the Khasi Tribals)
If you have enough time, do trek down to the valley below. Not only can you see the forests up close and the bubbling streams, you can see and walk over the world famous root bridges. This trek can be physically exhausting though. A lot of folk will make the effort of going to Mawsynram – celebrated as the rainiest place on Planet Earth. But it isn't any fun unless you go in peak monsoon. Then it pours and pours and pours and pours – and you cannot see a thing and there isn't even a five minute rain-free sunny stretch and you'll never dare step outdoors. I'm planning to experience that in the next monsoon.
If you are adventurous, do not miss a chance to sample Khasi cuisine, especially the pork rice. However, it has little to offer the vegetarian, since it based quite heavily on pork and other red meat. But given the number of tourists (especially Bengalis) who visit Sohra, you will get enough by way of Indian Chinese, Punjabi and Bengali food. Or atleast the Khasi interpretation of these. I strongly recommend Sohra Pulao, which is rice cooked with oil and vegetables, but not a trace of spice.
And do not forget to try the local snack - pineapple slices served with salt and pepper.
At most of the tourist points in Sohra, you will get stalls selling you bamboo handicrafts, as well as handlooms and woollens. You can also buy cinnamon and other spices, which are cultivated there. Do buy Meghalaya tea if available; it has a light flavour quite distinct from Assam or Darjeeling tea. For most other items, you will have to get them in Shillong before you set out for Sohra.
A trip to Sohra can be fairly heavy or light on the pocket, depending on how you budget for it. Take Guwahati as your base for calculating costs.
Meghalaya or Assam State Transport Corporations run regular non-A/C buses between Shillong and Guwahati. These can cost you between Rs. 100 – Rs. 150 per person one way. Else you can hire a taxi or car from Guwahati. A umber of taxis operate under the Chief Minister's Tourism Promotion Scheme, which charge between Rs. 5 to Rs. 7 per kilometre.
Hotels in Shillong can be found to fit any budget, but as I wrote earlier, try to get a home stay and negotiate with your host family. The more generous you are, the nicer they'll be to you. There are resorts in Sohra, costing between Rs. 3,000 – Rs. 5000 a night. While expensive, they nevertheless offer you a full range of services, including a local tour and luxurious amenities.
Closure
Warning to visitors: It is impossible to say goodbye to Sohra (or Cherrapunjee as it was once called). So if you plan a visit there, do be prepared for heartbreak when you leave. A part of your heart while remain there forever.
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