Shillong: Say Khublei To Scotland -

The Scotland of the East shares not only the beauty of the Scotland of the West, but also some of its ills. Mornings can be quite chilly and foggy, so do pack woollens. It can rain quite suddenly, so rainwear is mandatory.

Also essential is a guitar, and a knowledge of the chords of Hotel California. Shillongians are very fond of rock music, so you can sing for your supper if you are short on hard currency.

Shillong is, as I said, a tourist trap. It is much like an Indian hill-station in that respect, with a boating lake (Ward Lake), children's park cum mini-zoo (Lady Hydari Park), botanical park, a native bazaar (Iewduh) and numerous 'points' from where to see the neighbouring hills. If  you are on a 'family vacation', please do look up all these places. They are very scenic and make for an ideal, restful holiday. You will also get a guide to show you around the spots where famous film scenes (from Bangla and Asomiya movies) were shot.

(The Unique Three Steps Elephant Falls)

At Elephant Falls, a little distance away from the city, you can experience a unique three-step waterfall. These falls are sacred to the Khasis, so please do not bathe there or litter the place (the fines are quite stiff). You can get photographed in the costume of a Khasi Syiem (ceremonial ruler) for a fee of Rs.50, inclusive of turban and sword. There are several other falls around Shillong, so if you love falling water, you will never tire of visiting them all.

(A View Of Shillong From Shillong Peak)

Shillong Peak is a little away from the city, and you may need the help of a tourist taxi to get there. It rises nearly 2000 feet above the city, and offers a complete, panoramic view. A board usefully points out how you can locate the city's most prominent buildings, such as the secretariat and civil hospital. Access to Shillong Peak may be restricted at times, as it is within an Air Force cantonment. Sadly, growing urban sprawl has meant that it increasingly looks less like the Scottish Highlands, and more like some of the seedier parts of Glasgow.

(Organic Farming Helps the Butterflies Thrive) 

The way to Shillong Peak is dotted with organic farms, and you can buy some organic veggies if you like (carrots, potatoes and chow-chow). You will be fascinated by the millions of butterflies that thrive in these pesticide and fertiliser free fields. And if 'tis a brae bricht moonlicht nicht as the Scots say, you could take a refreshing night walk under the stars.

(The Picturesque Umaim Lake - Loch Lomond Of The East) 

Another scenic location is Umiam Lake, a few kilometres away from the city. If you haven't seen a Scottish loch, Umiam (or Barapani as the Bengalis and Asomiya call it) will fill the void. Unfortunately, there is no record of an Eastern cousin of Scotland's most famous (and elusive) resident – the Loch Ness Monster. Perhaps there really is one, waiting for you to discover it?

If you are with a 'friends party', you can try the many bars and a few discos that are there in the city. The Scotland of the East is certainly not lacking in Scotch! There are quite a few picnic sspots too. But do be mindful of regional sensibilities; Shillongians are a neat and peace-loving people and don't approve of mindless frolicking, especially on Sundays. They would rather enjoy a leisurely putt at Shillong's well maintained golf course.

(Taxi Cum Tea Stall At Shillong)

(Bringing Items To The Bara Bazaar Market)

The cultural visitor, who would like to know the Khasis better, has many options. You can walk along the streets of Police Bazaar or Bara Bazaar (Iewduh), and observe local commerce. Mumbaikars, familiar with Chor Bazaar in their city, will wonder at the name Police Bazaar – do you think the items the Mumbai police confiscate from thieves get sold in Shillong?

(Village Panorama - Williamson Sangma State Museum)

(Khasi Syiem and Consort at Williamson Sangma Museum) 

The Williamson Sangma Meghalaya State Museum, next to the state secretariat, has a good collection of ethnic weapons, utensils, fabrics of the Khasis, as well as Garos and Jaintias. Don't miss the top floor, which has beautiful panoramas of regional culture made with clay dolls. The museum also pays homage to U Tirot Sing and Tongan Sangma, the Khasi and Garo leaders who gave up their lives fighting for freedom from the British.

(Painting Of Nohkalikai Falls, State Art Gallery) 

The complex also houses the State Performing Arts Auditorium, and State Art Gallery. Within the complex is also a huge Monolith, which is of religious significance to the Khasis. It holds a symbolism similar to that of the 'lingam' in Hindu faith.

You can also visit the Don Bosco Museum, which has exhibits from all North Eastern States. In the suburbs of Laitumkhrah or Pynthorumkhrah, you can view traditional Shillong culture. If you are lucky, you may see a traditional Khasi or Garo wedding. You might become very unlucky, if you try to gatecrash it though!

(Caribou Transport Aircraft, Air Force Museum)

(Planes Over The Years @ The Air Force Museum) 

Shillong is a major cantonment, as the headquarters of the Eastern Air Command and 101 Area of the Army. It has a number of war cemeteries (from the many wars the British fought including Kohima in 1944), and regimental museums. The Rhino Museum chronicles the Bangladesh war of 1971 and the Air Force Museum has a collection of old planes, photos, models, uniforms etc of the Air Force through the decades. A must visit for any history buff.

And finally, there is no visiting Shillong without experiencing the rock music scene. It is the Mecca of Indian Rock, and if you haven't attended any of its several rock music festivals, you haven't done the rocker's equivalent of the Hajj!

(Monolith, Sacred To The Khasis) 

Lastly, if you would skip Shillong's urban ills, head off to Sohra, Nongstoin or Jowai where you can experience rural Meghalayan life. Or further to Balpakram, an elephant sanctuary.

The Khasi staple is Ja Doh – red meat with rice. Pork is their favourite, followed by mutton. They also like their beans (Rymbai), especially fermented. Trattoria Dukan Ja Doh, in Police Bazaar, is the place you want to go to. There are however, quite a few other places where you get Khasi specialities.

Since the North East Hill University, several colleges and an Indian Institute of Management call Shillong home, there is quite a population of youngsters from all over the country. Also, pensioners from Assam and Bengal have chosen to settle here. This makes Shillong a very cosmopolitan place, so you can get a lot of Bengali, Asomiya, Punjabi, Marwari, 'South Indian' and Indian Chinese food too. Bamboo Hut is a restaurant near the Secretariat that serves Punjabi food so good, Delhi would be jealous. Especially the kali dal is to die for.

Shillong also has a number of bakeries, where you can buy home-made bread, cookies and chocolates. I did, and they were quite delicious. Sadly, haggis is the one thing you won't get in this Scotland.