Egypt – The Mother of all Mummies(Part I - Cairo and its Whereabouts)
You think of Egypt and the first images that fleet through your mind are from movies “Death on the Nile”, “The Mummy” and “The Mummy Returns”. While some scenes may have been theatrical, the enigma and grandeur associated with them is so very true to this place.
The Pyramids of Giza, Valley of Kings, treasures of Tutankhamun, the Nile cruise, Karnak temple in Luxor - everything as in everything has a mystical and magical feel to it. The richness of the country’s heritage, the magic of its past and the royalty of its genes is still very much evident when you visit the glorious and spectacular heritage sites. Equally enticing and interesting is the modern day version of the country that is brimming with people who are friendly and eager to please.
During our brief sojourn in the country we could caress the prominent historical sites and through our interaction with our local guides and other local people catch a glimpse of their charm and bonhomie. Through this three part series article my intention is to bring to you the facts about the things to do and places to visit but also unveil the pulse of the nation.
Part 1 covers the logistics and Cairo City and the places around it!
Our decision to visit Egypt was impromptu as the other destinations of my first choice, Turkey and Greece, were inaccessible due to weather conditions. On hindsight it was a great decision as it has been a journey of lifetime.
We decided to go on an 8N/ 9D trip through Cox and Kings as we were travelling with our two year old daughter and wanted everything to be organized and hassle free. We took an individual package customized especially for us. It was a good decision as everything was very well-organized; transportation and guides were taken care of. All we had to do was go around and enjoy ourselves, though we had our fair share of adventures.
Multiple options are available to fly down to Cairo: Qatar airlines, Gulf Air, Emirates Airlines and Ethiyad Air.
We chose Qatar Airlines and flew via Doha to Cairo.
Our choice of lodgings was as per our itinerary.
For our first night in Cairo we chose to stay at Grand Pyramids hotel near Pyramids of Giza as we were to visit Pyramids the next morning.
For last couple of days in Cairo we stayed at the Marriott , in the heart of the city.
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A glimpse of Hotel Marriott
Cairo has multiple options available to suit your budget and preferences.
Our second night was spent in an overnight train to Aswan and the next three nights on a cruise. Our cruise ship was called Royal Ruby. All cruise ships have a pre-decided departure date and itinerary, hence a cruise ship that one can get is based on one’s travel dates.
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Our train coupe in the overnight train to Aswan. Can feel a bit cramped as there is no luggage space
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Our Nile cruise – Royal Ruby
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The terrace deck
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Host of cruises lined up
Egypt has lot of history to offer and the main halts in Egypt are Cairo, Aswan and Luxor. Alexandria and Dahab are other two popular cities.
Cairo : Sights to See
The Pyramid of Khufu is the oldest and largest of the three pyramids in Egypt. It is the only one of the initial Seven Wonders of the World to be intact. As per records, initially at 146.5 metres (480.6 ft), the Great Pyramid was the tallest man-made structure in the world for over 3,800 years, the longest period of time ever held for such a record. The Pyramids are so huge that it is impossible to capture them in a frame while standing next to them.
On our first day in Cairo our rendezvous with the Pyramids was scheduled. Our first impression of this marvel architecture was awe inspiring. We kept looking for the Pyramids at ground level, from our hotel balcony, only to discover after a long time that it was towering above all the buildings and flyover in the distance. The Pyramids are colossal.
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First faint glimpse of Pyramids from our hotel balcony. If you look closely you can see it behind the lamp post
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A vantage view of the three main pyramids along with the satellite pyramids
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Pyramid of Khafre
Pyramids were mainly burial chambers of kings built during their lifetime as a result of their belief in after life. In the tombs the mummified bodies of the kings were accompanied by lots of treasures and everything that they would need in their second life to lead a comfortable life, so much so that they also carried figurines of their servants who would serve them in the after-life. The walls of the tombs were beautifully carved with images of Egyptian Gods and hieroglyphics giving the code to revive in after-life.
The Great Pyramid of Khufu allows entry inside the tomb for a fee. It is supposed to be a very long and narrow passageway which leads one to the sarcophagus, the resting place of the mummy, which is now empty. We decided not to go inside given that we were unsure how our daughter will react. If you are keen on getting a glimpse of the tomb you can do the same in Valley of the Kings.
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Entrance to Great Pyramid of Khufu
Close to the Pyramids you can experience a ride on the Ship of the Desert, the camels. For us this usual serene ride turned a bit adventurous as our two camels decided to show us their ferocious side by launching into a fight while we were still on them. With me screaming and almost at the edge of my seat just short of falling off, you can very well imagine the experience.
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All smiles unaware of what we were going to experience shortly :-)...
A short distance away from the Pyramids lays the very famous Sphinx, the worl-renowned face of Egypt. Representing a mythical creature with body of a lion and a human head, the Sphinx seems to stand guard at the Giza complex. It is believed to be the largest monolith in the world.
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Great Sphinx of Giza
A sound and light show is held every evening close to the above site. You must attend this.
Egyptian Museum of Antiquities - Egyptian Museum houses an extensive collection of Egyptian treasures and antiques. It also has a Royal Mummy Room where the recovered mummies of ancient rulers including that of Ramses and Queen Hatshepsut are resting. The entry fee to the Mummy room is additional, if not included in your package.
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The Egyptian Museum of Antiquities
The most significant feature of the museum is the Tutankhamun Gallery which houses the treasures excavated and recovered from the tomb of King Tutankhamun in 1922. Apparently this is the only tomb which had its treasures and sarcophagus intact, as all other tombs had been raided and robbed at some point in time. Here in this gallery you will get to see the most recognizable symbols of Ancient Egypt, the golden mask of King Tutankhamun. The treasures recovered give a very good insight into the thinking and beliefs of that time.
Note : Photography is not allowed inside the museum.
The Citadel - Located in the heart of the city lays another landmark of Cairo, the Citadel. Citadel is said to have housed Egypt’s rulers for around 700 years. The external architecture is as exquisite as the inside of the mosque that is housed in the Citadel. You need to take off your shoes and carry them with you when visiting the mosque.
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The Citadel
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The central courtyard inside the Citadel
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Inside the Main Hall
Coptic Cairo - Coptic Cairo is a part of Old Cairo which is a major religious destination for Christians. Here you will find The Church of St. Sergius which is supposedly built over the cave where the Holy Family is believed to have taken shelter while escaping from King Herod. Photography is not allowed.
In this area you will also find the Hanging Church that is built over the gatehouse of Babylon Fortress. The architecture is magnificent and the church is an ideal place to spend a few moments alone. If interested, you can also visit the Coptic Museum and the Ben Ezra Synagogue.
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The Hanging Church
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Map depicting the journey of the Holy Family through Egypt
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The ornately carved walls of the Hanging Church
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Walking through Coptic Cairo
Al-Azhar Mosque – The mosque is one of the oldest mosques in Cairo and is a representative of the Islamic Cairo. Ornate minarets, beautiful doorways and sprawling prayer halls are some of the highlights of this spectacular building. Women need to be clad in a burqa(like I had to) or wear a hijab to gain entry into the mosque.
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Central courtyard of the Al-Azhar mosque
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Sprawling prayer halls
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Women need to wear a burqa or hijab inside the mosque
Khan-el-Khalili Market – A shopper’s paradise, Khan-el-Khalili is the main tourist market in Cairo. You can pick up souvenirs and local artefacts here. However do note that you cannot be sure of the genuineness of some of the stuff like Papyrus paintings, Alabaster artefacts etc. These are best bought at the factories where your local guides will take you. Khan-el-Khalili is the best place to pick up lots of other things like Egyptian lamps, painted plates, fridge magnets etc. But you need to bargain shamelessly to get a reasonable price.
This is also the perfect place to experience the cafes which serve you Turkish coffee, local tea and local delicacies.

The vibrant colors of Khan-e-Khalili market

Egyptian lamps in abundance

Take a sip of Turkish coffee and some local tea
Cairo Trivia
- Unfinished houses are a common sight in Cairo. Our guide informed us that these houses are very much inhabited and it is only the exteriors of the houses that are unfinished. This is done for tax reasons. Completed houses are taxed at higher rates.
- Equally common are mosques in the city which are beautiful and significant in every sense.
- ?Like we have dogs all around us in India, you will find feline friends aka cats in abundance in Cairo, especially in the Khan-el-Khalili market
- Baksheesh or tips are a norm and you will be expected to tip even your local guides on a daily basis.
- Breads are a staple in whole of Egypt and you will find them in abundance.
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A bread shop
- Traffic in Cairo and the number of people around you can get a little overwhelming.
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Cairo traffic
While Khan-el-Khalili market is the best place to pick up cheap souvenirs, for authentic Papyrus paintings you must visit a Papyrus painting showroom that your local guide may take you to. There are plenty of such showrooms close to the Pyramids.
I also suggest Egyptian lamps as a must-buy as they are exquisite.
Cairo is also home to many Perfumeries. Our local guide took us to one and I ended up picking a perfume Jasmine fragrance that smelled just like Givenchy’s Amarige J
Closure
The journey through Ancient and Modern Egypt is a roller-coaster ride with both ages having fascinating aspects. The Ancient world with its Pharaonic influence was an era of wealth and power, which gives the whole experience a very mystical touch. Whereas Modern Egypt is a reminder of the nation’s legacy that one finds in every nook and corner in the form of souvenirs, frescos, umpteen numbers of guides etc. The co-existence of conservatism and modernism, as visible in the lifestyle of people, makes it very interesting. All in all it was a wonderful experience and journey of a lifetime.

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