Guwahati – Pride of the Brahmaputra -
Say Indian city, and any foreigner will give you a romantic image – crowded, colourful bazaars, narrow alleys, sacred cows, snake charmers and mystic fakirs. And time seemingly standing very, very still. In today's mall-driven culture, you would rarely find an Indian city still like that. Yet get thee to Guwahati, and you will find a city full of that legendary charm awaiting you (minus the fakirs and snake charmers, of course). With some of the most charming residents I have ever met.
Twilight On The Brahmaputra,Kamakhya Hills In The Background
For all its old-world charm, Guwahati is quite a modern city. Lokopriyo Gopinath Bordoloi International Airport just on the outskirts, connecting North-east India to Bangladesh and Bhutan. There are daily flights from major Indian cities. Booked well in advance, a Mumbai-Guwahati-Mumbai return trip would cost you about Rs. 9000. Hire a taxi plying under the Chief Minister's Tourism Development Fund (with a trademark rhino painted on the side), and you will be charged a fair rate too get to the main city.
Guwahati is also major railway station – the gateway to all north-eastern states, with regular trains. And buses run from there to all state capitals in the region.
The right time to show up in Guwahati is in summer before the monsoons (April-July), or in the autumn (October-November). In summer it can get quite hot, so light clothing is preferable. In autumn it can get chilly, so woollens are a must. An umbrella is a total must, for it can rain when it feels like.
Guwahati's myths and history go back several thousands of years. Although the date of the city's beginning is unknown, references in the epics, puranas, and other traditional histories, lead many to assume that it is one of the ancient cities of Asia. Epigraphic sources place the capitals of many ancient kingdoms in Guwahati. It was the capital of the 'mythological' kings Narakasura and Bhagadatta according to the Mahabharata. The ancient sakti temple of Goddess Kamakhya located in Nilachal hill (also important seat of Tantric and Vajrayana Buddhism), the ancient and unique astrological temple Navagraha located in Chitrachal Hill, and archaeological remains in Basista and other locations support the mythological assertions of the city's ancient past.
Source : Wikipediia
Although this site is rarely partial to a specific hotel, I will stick out and strongly suggest the Hotel Rialto in Lakhtokia, just north of the railway station. Not only is it convenient to visit the major attractions of Guwahati, but the staff are amazingly polite and helpful. One has little experience of Guwahati's other hotels, but I hope all hotels there are like this.
There are of course several other hotels, and you will easily find one to suit your budget, from the luxurious to the backpacker.
For a detailed list of all kinds of Hotels in Guwahati, visit here
The railway line from Bengal to Upper Assam roughly divides Guwahati into two. The northern part is the older, more charming part, along the Brahmaputra, and holds most tourist places. The southern part is more modern and residential, and contains the state secretariat and business district.
Kamakhya Templefrom the outside - The Goddess is a presence, not an idol
The Vivacity Of Life at the Kamakhya Temple
A visit to Kamakhya Devi is the first task. Situated on a hill, this is a unique temple that has no idol, but the devout believe they can sense the divine presence in the sanctum sanctorum. The temple is itself of medieval origin, with fine architecture. And the teeming life around it – cows, goats, pigeons will certainly leave an impression on you, in more ways than one.
Guwahati as seen from Kamakhya Hill - A city framed by nature
Bhramhaputra as seen from Kamakhya Hill - as serene as it is magnificent
Kamakhya Hill is also home to many other temples. From the summit you can get a fantastic view of the mighty Brahmaputra. You will be amazed by tis breadth, and its serenity.
Umananda Temple is another unique place, located on a tiny islet in the middle of the river. To get to it, you have to take a ferry from the Umananda Ghat. The ferry ride is worth its weight in gold – you get an intimate, soul-touching feel of the great river. And if you are lucky, you can catch sight of river dolphins jumping about in the waters.
Pillar with unique snake motif - Assam State Museum
The incredible sculptures of Assam
Vignettes from Rural Life - Assam State Museum
The Assam State Museum is a must-visit. Too. Though tiny compared to those in the metros, it is very well curated. You get an close view of contemporary Asomiya culture, as well as the rich and textured history of this ancient place, through sculpture, clothing, coins and much more. A walk through an Asomiya village home and vivid panoramas of Assam's tribes make for an interesting experience.
There is a lot you can do at Guwahati. A walk in the morning by the Brahmaputra is what you must start with. The silent flow of the mighty rivers, the ferries transporting people, bicycles, motorcycles, goats and cattle across the river, the birds stirring about, the sun rays bouncing off the ripples... the mood is poetic.
Colorful and Vibrant Fancy Bazaar at night
In the daytime, you can pay a visit to Guwahati's famous Paltan Bazaar and Pan Bazaar. The latter is a good place to buy Asomiya silk sarees. You can find a lot more emporia on Gopinath Bordoloi Road. If you are interested in handicrafts, Pragjyotika – the state-run shop – is the place. For lunch try the Assam thali at Delicacy: Assamese cooking is neither too spicy nor oily, and includes many unique dishes.
But the big fun comes in the evening – with a visit to the colourful Fancy Bazaar. True to its name, you will find all manner of stuff here from all over the north-east. And you will find every charm of an Indian bazaar of yore – street entertainers, jhalmuri sellers, toys carried about on a bamboo frame, cotton candy...Fancy Bazaar is a shopper's delight. (It's name actually comes from 'Phansi' or hanging, because the market was originally set up around a public gallows, where the British Raj hung criminals and rebels).
Guwahati is easy on the purse, but like any major Indian city, you make of it what you want. An air trip plus a stay at a moderately priced hotel might leave you short Rs. 30,000. But you might want to consider this a wise investment – for the city will leave you with sweet memories.
Closure
Sweet is the one word that describes the city and its people the best. From the serene air at the Kamakhya Hill to the rolling boats on the Brahmaputra to the noisy bazaars, you will deliciate in every memory you carry back.
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8 Comment
I went there and stayed at the Hotel Landmark. The small city feel of Guwahati makes it a very good experience. Also, Assamese food is really sumptious.
Guwahati is beautiful place to visit and although I have visited once by seeing the picture makes me want to go there again. Beautiful pictures, reminded me of my trip! Will look forward to more blogs on terrainpotter. Thanks!
Thanks, Tridib. Yes, Guwahati has a charm that endures for a lifetime.
Awesome piece Raamesh... I have a lot of friends there... Visited 2-3 times. The place is indeed "Sweet".
Thank you, Divyang. Guwahati will reward you and enrich you!
Thanks Raamesh.Great note it is.In fact i was looking for a destination for my next trip and this will really help me to plan for guwahati.I will keep following your terrainspotter's tavelxeriences.
Thanks, Max. I do hope you will make the visit! I'm personally inclined to go there again soon.
Nice succinct description Raamesh - though I have been thee umpteen number of times, this makes me feel like another visit, as most of my in-laws are still there... hence the trip could be cheaper ! It is one of the greenest cities indeed, and if you travel around, the river Brahmputra becomes massively wide -one of the widest rivers in all its glory. Thanks.