Egypt – The Mother Of All Mummies (Part II - Aswan)

“You look like an Egyptian” is the remark that I remember from my trip to the night souk in Aswan as a shopkeeper tries to flirt, as I walk into his store. But his visual embarrassment when informed that I was not travelling alone but with my husband and child was hilarious. Flirting with tourists is what Egyptian men do with great ease.

However Aswan has more to offer than just flirtatious men. Aswan holds a prominent place in Egypt for its stone quarries, especially for its granite rock called Syenite. It is also home to the Nubian tribe that got displaced after construction of the Aswan dam. 

Though a smaller town compared to Cairo, Aswan’s slower pace allows you to relax and unwind. It has some sight-seeing options too.

The Unfinished Obelisk - The Unfinished Obelisk, at a granite quarry in Aswan, is the largest known ancient obelisk and gives insights into the stone working techniques of Ancient Egypt. The sheer size of this obelisk, that was left abandoned due to a crack in it, make you wonder how in those days people managed to work with such giant structures and also transport them to the temples, where they were finally erected.

Standing here I had an overwhelming experience when at the appointed hour of afternoon prayers the sound of “Azan” arose from all directions. The feeling is inexplicable.

Unfinished Obelisk in Aswan

Aswan High Dam

Aswan High Dam - Aswan Dam also known as the High Dam offers a beautiful sight of the Nile River and is very calming. The dam created an artificial lake, Lake Nasser and was responsible for the displacement of many old temples as they risked being submerged.

Philae temple of Isis - Located on Philae Island in Lake Naseer is the very famous and beautiful Philae Temple of Isis. Since it was our first visit to any of the Ancient Egypt temples we were totally overwhelmed by the magnificence of its scale and architecture. Unfortunately we left our camera in our cab and missed clicking photos.

Mausoleum of the Aga Khan – Aswan is also home to remains of Aga Khan III, the founder and first president of the All-India Muslim League. His mausoleum made of pink granite can be seen atop a small hill from miles away.

Mausoleum of Aga Khan

Archangel Michael's Coptic Orthodox Cathedral – Since we had the evening free we decided to take a horse carriage ride with our local guide and now friend Robert to visit his church. Consecrated as recent as 2006 the Orthodox Cathedral is beautiful, especially its painted dome.

The beautiful dome in Archangel Michael's Coptic Orthodox Cathedral

Inside the Cathedral

Abu Simbel – The massive rock temples of Abu Simbel are located about 230 km away from Aswan. The twin temples carved out of a mountainside were a meant to be monuments dedicated to Pharaoh Ramesses II and his queen Nefertari. Built in the 13th century BC the entire complex was relocated to an artificial hill in 1968 when they ran the risk of being submerged after creation of Lake Nasser.

While the site is a major touristic draw the whole year, the most popular is the Abu Simbel festival that happens twice a year in February and October. The temple is angled in such a way that only twice a year natural sunlight enters the complex and illuminates three of the four statues in the sanctum Santorum. Interestingly the statue of Ptah, the God of Darkness remains in shadow.

A caravan of buses leaves for this site early in the morning around 3 AM and are back by noon. We chose not to go as we were told that the journey can be strenuous with a child.

Other Things to do :

Night Souk – To experience the night life of Aswan walk down to the Night Souk or take a horse carriage. This market opens only in the night and is a splendid way to witness the hustle bustle of the city.

All decked up Night Souk in Aswan

Mistress of Spices

Nubian Village – Take a trip to a village of the Nubian tribe in a Felucca. Feluccas are the traditional ride around and a charming way to experience the Nile. Feluccas are mostly manned by the Nubians and are a source of their income, along with handmade wares that they may sell to you while on the boat. Our felucca took us to a Nubian village where we were taken to a traditional house. We got to eat their bread, put traditional henna and see their pet crocodiles. Yes, you read it correct they keep crocodiles as pets. 

A Felucca

A Nubian house that we visited

A daring act – a live crocodile on the head

Kom Ombo Temple – Along the Nile, beyond Aswan lays the Kom Ombo temple dating back to Ptolemaic era. The temple is unique as it is dedicated to two sets of gods. Southern half is dedicated to the crocodile God Sobek, god of fertility Hathor and creator of world Khonsu and northern half is dedicated to falcon god Horus.

The magnificent Kom Ombo temple

Wall reliefs showing the Pharaoh being given Ankh, the Key of life, by the Gods

Edfu Temple – An overnight journey on the cruise brings you to Edfu temple located on the west bank of the Nile, early in the morning. A horse carriage from the dock takes you through the city to reach the temple, one of the best preserved temples of the country. The second largest temple after Karnak temple of Luxor, this temple is dedicated to the falcon God, Horus. One characteristic that all Egyptian temples share is that they are colossal and elaborately ornamented. 

Entrance to the colossal Edfu temple

Inside the sanctuary of the temple

Wall relief depicting the Pharaoh making an offering to God Horus