Jaisalmer - Inside the Golden City

(Distant figures walking amongst the Sand Dunes)

Jaisalmer is right in the middle of the Thar Desert, and is therefore very hot and dry, often accompanied by dust storms. The desert outside the town cools rapidly after sunset, and light woolen clothing would be useful, even on warmer days. December to February is a good period to visit, when one can walk and explore the fort and the city.

 

Jaisalmer has a host of places, with the imposing fort, monuments and havelis outside the fort, and Hindu and Jain temples both within and outside the fort.

To retain the beauty of the town, all structures, old and new, are built with the same honey-coloured sandstone or Yellow Sandstone, even if it is just a frontal façade. This level of uniformity may not be seen in any other town, be it the Pink City of Jaipur, or the Blue City of Jodhpur.

Jaisalmer Fort

The ‘Golden Fort’, a UNESCO heritage site, looks very imposing and majestic, as one arrives from the railway station to the fort (an auto ride would cost Rs. 30-40). The glorious sandstone structure stands at 76 m above the city surrounding it.

(The Bustling Fort Town at Gopa Chowk)

At Gopa Chowk, the fort can be accessed through a series of ‘Pols’ (gates), starting with Malka Pol, following an upward slope and crossing Suraj Pol, then, still climbing upward and crossing Ganesh Pol, and Hawa Pol, finally reaching Dussehra Chowk. This entire 10-minute walk is almost completely uphill. This is perhaps the only living fort in the world, with more than 1,000 people, mostly descendants of people who worked at the ruler’s court. Like most Rajput forts, it houses palaces, shops, and temples inside, and now also has a number of bed and breakfast hotels.

(The Rajmahal Palace)

The Rajmahal Palace (below), near Dussehra Chowk, is the home of the erstwhile ruler, and has now been converted into a museum, and houses many important artefacts of the period, including weapons, stamps, costumes, portraits of rulers, and coins. The complex also houses the Queen’s Apartments.

Jain Temples (within the fort)

(The Parsvnath Temple – The Head Jain Temple)

The fort precincts contains as many as six Jain temples, with elaborate carvings in honey-colored sandstone, especially the intricate ceilings inside.The main temple, Parsvnath, is itself a complex of four temples, with the highlight being the main statue of Lord Mahavira, and 52 smaller statues around, parallel to the four walls of the temple.

Havelis

(The Grand Patwa Haveli of Jaisalmer)

Outside the fort, the town has many exceptional havelis, built by rich merchants, with the Patwa Haveli (below) being the most well-preserved. The Patwa Haveli, a group of five buildings, and was built for five brothers. The haveli has attempted to showcase the life and times of the merchants, through displays of the living room, the room for business, the bedrooms, displays of their clothes, etc.

(Dhanna Ram and his Moustache)

And yes, while at Patwa Haveli, do meet up with Dhanna Ram (below), the owner of the world’s second longest moustache! The other havelis in Jaisalmer include Nathmal ki haveli, Salam Singh ki haveli, and Nachana haveli.

Mandir Palace (Hotel and Museum)

(The Mandir Palace)

This monument used to be the abode of a close relation of the erstwhile ruler of Jaisalmer, and features intricate carvings and various artefacts at the small museum.

(The Rooftops of Mandir Palace)

From the roof of the Mandir Palace, one can get to see the old residence of the Jaisalmer rulers, Badal Mahal (below), with its impressive Tazia Tower, built by Muslim subjects as a mark of respect.

Gadisagar Lake

( Relax like a King at the Gadisagar Lake)

To the south-east of the fort, lies the artificial oasis (fed by waters from the Indira Gandhi canal) Gadisagar . The lake, which was earlier a natural oasis, was the reason behind Prince Jaisal deciding to settle in the vicinity and starting his own dynasty. In the middle of the lake is a structure which allowed the king to relax. The complex also houses a Jain temple. Boating rides are also available.

NK Sharma Folklore Museum

(Rajasthani Artefacts at the N K Sharma Museum)

While visiting Gadisagar lake, it is definitely worthwhile to sample the artefacts at this museum, which forms the personal collection of Prof NK Sharma, a local historian. Exhibits include paintings, handicrafts, camel decorations, and a section on the famous love story of princess Moomal and king Mahendra. Further, the government museum, near RTDC’s Hotel Moomal, houses items of archaeological interest like fossils and inscriptions, in addition to stoneware and sculptures.

Excursions

Jaisalmer has a lot of import excursions, which are often left out by travel agents from Delhi. The only excursions covered regularly are the camel safaris, and the night stay at Sam. Apart from the Sand dunes, a cab should cover the other excursions within Rs 1500.

Bada Bagh

(The Royal Samadhis at Bada Bagh)

This site, 6 kilometres north of Jaisalmer, features royal samadhis of most rulers of the past, with each Samadhi wonderfully decorated with a chhatri, again in the same honey-coloured sandstone.

(The Yellow Sandstone Bada Bagh Structures)

Lodurva and Amar Sagar

(The Temple at Lodurva)

(The Statue Of Mahavir at Lodurva)

Located 15 kilometres north-west of Jaisalmer, Lodurva was an old Marwar capital, but is now a town in ruins. The chief attraction is an intricately carved Jain temple, whose highlight is the black statue of Mahavir, within the sanctum sanctorum.

The Amar Sagar Jain temple has been restored in recent years, and 5 kilometres north-west of Jaisalmer. It is a complex of three temples.

Kuldhara and Kabha

(The abandoned Town Of Kuldhara)

17 kilometres from Jaisalmer, off Sam road, lies the once-flourishing township of Kuldhara (below), once inhabited by Paliwal Brahmins, who were farmers and bankers. After the Prime Minister of Jaisalmer imposed heavy taxes on them, they abandoned the city in the 18th century. The city gives an insight into the lives of the community, and urban planning during those times.

South of Kuldhara is the other town abandoned by the Paliwals, Kabha.

Sam (sand dunes)

40 kilometres west of Jaisalmer, Sam is a popular haunt for sunset views and camel rides. It is not really a remote spot in the desert, but is rather a sand spot that is close enough to the city. There are some impressive views of dunes, apart from the majesty of the sunset, of course. For still images, this excursion has two challenges:a slow rocking ride, and the sheer pace with which the sun goes down.

Some travel agents offer extensive camel safaris across all the excursions above, for 2-3 days, but for many tourists, an hour on a tick-ridden camel is quite enough!

(A view Of the Setting Sun from Sam)

 

 

For a feel of the local cuisine, and an authentic ambience, the Trio Restaurant (Ph: 02992-252733) at Gandhi Chowk, is among the best eating joints, especially for dinner. Dishes especially recommended include Gatta curry and Laal Maas (meat). Dinner time also allows for a great view of the fort.

Other good eateries at Gandhi Chowk include Top Deck and Saffron (at Nachana Haveli)

Dhanraj Bhatia Sweets is a popular option for some local sweets, such as ghotua laddoos and panchadhari laddoos.