Oslo - The Land of the Evening Sun

- By Reshmi

Oslo, the Norwegian capital got some bad press recently because of the horrible terror attacks. In my mind however, it is entrenched as a beautiful city where it seems that nothing bad can ever happen. The city lies between the Oslomarka (the forest area) and the Oslofjord (the sea) and is quite an interesting mix of Scandinavian culture along with several other immigrant communities. I visited Oslo in summer a few years ago, when the sun refused to set until 10 at night and peeked in again by 4 in the morning. It was a city of surprises, mainly due to the fact that I didn’t have much knowledge of Norway beyond the Vikings and Henrik Ibsen. It was therefore a surprise to discover that Norwegians spoke almost perfect English, many cab drivers were from Pakistan and there were as many restaurants for tandoori and naan as there were for Norwegian cuisine. As for Vikings, they were very much around. There was a Viking Ship Museum dedicated to them after all!

What to see

The Aker Haus fortress near the harbour

Take a walk around the city, especially the part they call Medieval Oslo with its churches and cobbled lanes. The area is called Gamlebyn or Old Town. True to medieval form, there is also a fortress called Akershus Festning or Fortress, which can be quite nice to walk around in, though do not expect Tower of London type medieval props here. It gives you a fabulous view of the Oslo Fjord, which is really the best part of the visit, apart from the fact that the entrance is free! If you feel like walking more, the Ekeberg Hill is a short distance away on foot or by tram and gives you good views of the city.

Walk down from here to Aker Brygge, which is a former shipyard turned into trendy hotspot with malls, pubs and restaurants, all quite expensive but worth a try nevertheless.

Performers at Aker Brygge

You don’t need to spend though as there is enough to do by just hanging around this beautiful harbour front teeming with performers, people, sailboats and great views. If the weather is sunny (and it often isn’t), take yourself to Frogner Park and the mind blowing sculptures within it at Vigeland Park. Dotted with more than 200 sculptures of human figures by the famous Gustav Vigeland, it is quite a sight to behold and turns every first time visitor quite speechless.

Inside Vigeland Park

A lot of the activity in Oslo happens around Karl Johan’s Gate, a pedestrian-only long street lined with cafes, shops and pubs that ends at the Royal Palace. The Domkirken (church) is also situated here as is the National Theatre and the Bazaar market, where you can look for some cheap trinkets. Cheap by Oslo standards that is. In fact, downtown Oslo as some would call it is the most happening area in the city, with pretty back alleys, the harbour, churches, the station, shopping malls and theatre and a fortress and royal palace thrown in for good measure. This is also where the Nobel Peace Prize is given in December, at the City Hall.

Moving around Oslo : Your best bet is to get the Oslo Pass if you intend to move around the city, take in the sights, shopping and nightlife. It offers access to public transport, museums and other tourist attractions, parking in municipal car parks among others and is available with a validity of 24, 48 or 72 hours. You can pick it up at any tourist information office for 230 Norwegian Kroner (NOK), which is almost Rs. 1880.

The public transport system (bus, train, tram) is quite good though a fun way of exploring Oslo would be with the city bike. You could pick a smartcard from the Tourist Information office and rent a bike from any of the 100 bike stations around Oslo. Costs NOK 80 (approx Rs 600) for 24 hours.

How to get there

By Air

Aeroflot connects Delhi to Oslo. You could also fly Lufthansa or Air France from Mumbai and Bangalore. Fares start at Rs. 40,000 return. There is a high speed train service between Oslo’s Gardemoen airport and the Oslo Central Station. There are Tourist Information centres near the City Hall and the Central Station. Do visit the Use-It office at Mollergata, run by the Oslo Youth Information Centre (www.use-it.no). You can get not just information but also get a free place to park your luggage, surf the net if needed, etc. I used their free guide Streetwise extensively during my stay and it helped me much more than better known guides did. Another helpful website would be www.visitoslo.com

Climate

May to September for the summer sun and festivals. If you fancy a trip to see the Northern Lights, it has to be post September and you need to take a trip to Northern Norway.

Where to Stay

Staying cheap is not an easy option in Oslo, so be ready to loosen your purse strings here if not break the bank. You could rent apartments (osloapartments.no) from NOK 600 onwards or stay in a hostel like Anker Hostel, which even offer rooms with multiple beds and would be one of the cheapest options available for the budget traveller. A mid range hotel from a well known brand at the city centre would cost you around Rs. 12,000 a night. Oslo also offers several camping options, given the abundance of campsites around this city like Bogstad, Ekeberg, etc. I haven’t tried them myself but hey, what’s stopping you? If the budget is a bit tight you could also try accommodation in a private home. Your best bet to find this is to visit the Use-It office at Mollergata.

Nightlife

Oslo parties Friday onwards like much of the world does. When we stayed there, young Norwegians would hit the pubs in the city centre, starting with Karl Johan’s Gate and ending up at Aker Brygge. It was amusing to see some of them down quick shots of espresso in between drinking bouts to “keep them going.” There’s a lot of music around and the kebab shops are packed to the brim. Speaking of kebabs, that was another big surprise, to see Turkish/Arabic Doner Kebabs as the most popular street food in faraway Scandinavia. It ain’t exactly cheap though. Some of it could set you back by almost $10. You would also find pubs and restaurants with great music in the Grunerlokka area. If you’re looking for a cheap place to eat after a night out in town and fancy a desi bite, head to Grønland, Oslo’s immigrant hub full of restaurants with names like Punjab Tandoor, Curry House, etc. No prizes for guessing what’s on your plate there. Most pubs stay open till quite late in Oslo. For more up to date info try the Use-It guide.

Places of interest

Bygdøy: If you have kids with you or even if you are an adults only group, one must visit place is the Viking Ship Museum.

At the Viking Ship Museum

You could take the ferry or the bus to Bygdøy from Oslo Central Station or National Theatre. The Viking Museum has two fabulously preserved Viking ships from the 9th century. If you have time on hand, Bygdøy makes a good day outing as it is Oslo’s museum hub. There are quite a few museums here. The Folk Museum houses an 800 year old church and the Kon Tiki Museum details explorer Thor Heyerdahl’s voyage.

Sunny Drøbak

Drøbak: Islands on the Oslofjord are worth a trip when you have a day at hand and we visited Drøbak, about half an hour’s journey from Oslo by ferry. It was quite the picture perfect town with cobbled streets and pretty wooden homes. There’s a lovely harbour from where you can watch the boats, ferries and cruise ships (yes, cruise ships) passing by and even a Santa Claus Post Office in the town square!

Oslomarka: Go for a walk in the forests that surround Oslo for a completely different experience altogether. You could take a tram there or even the train and refresh at several of the cabins along the way once you start your walk/hike. The Holmenkollen Ski Museum is nearby so you could probably club the two. I didn’t as I had a lot of time on my hands but do check and see if you can.

Must Dos

Five Things to do in Oslo

1. First and absolute must is to take yourself to the harbour at the city centre early mornings and grab a few shrimps fresh off the water. It’s fresh, simply cooked, served in a paper bag and absolutely yummy.

2. Have coffee at the Grand Cafe, visited by the likes of painter Edvard Munch and the famous playwright Henrik Ibsen

3. If it’s a lovely summer day, take a ferry (or two) and go island sightseeing on the Oslofjord. Try Vippetangen, Hovedoya and Bygdøy. You could even take a cruise on the fjord.

Sunny day on the Oslofjord

4. Try Reindeer Steak. Apology to vegetarians but this is a nation that loves its meat and fish.

5. If the sun is out late, stay away from the hotel or apartment or wherever it is you plan to park yourself. The whole of Oslo is out and having fun so take yourself to Stortorvet to listen to some street musicians, hang out with a drink near the university gardens, people watch at Aker Brygge, gaze moonily at all those sleek looking boats parked along the way or simply walk around and take in the late evening sun.

Closure

Few Indians may plan a holiday just to Oslo given that it isn’t exactly marketed at the tourist the way Switzerland or even Iceland is marketed these days. Oslo however is a rather charming and trendy city that could be the start of a holiday in the beautiful Norwegian fjords or a good break on its own.

Tags: Oslo Vigeland Park Aker Brygge Viking Ship Museum

Oslo - The Land of the Evening Sun

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